Chasing Waves by Bianca Mori

Author:Bianca Mori [Mori, Bianca]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Published: 2017-05-13T18:30:00+00:00

Chapter 9

SURFING SPEECH

DRAFT (con’t)

When I was 29 I received an unexpected gift a month after Christmas. The gift arrived at 7:32 in the morning one humid January. Seven pounds two ounces, bright pink and screaming, with little tufts of fine sandy hair that later darkened to a burnt caramel.

The gift did not come without surprises, however. And not all of them were welcome.

See, when they took my little boy from me, they didn’t do it properly. We all very nearly lost my gift and it took me a very long time to heal. No getting up for a month, and walking and carrying a baby at the same time? Nearly impossible. Still, I took it on. I focused on getting better. I concentrated on being able to care for my little one. I wanted to be well, because for the first time in my life, looking out for me wasn’t my number one priority anymore. Although I hadn’t planned for it, now I had a real reason to wake up in the morning, aside from funding my next surfing trip.

It’s been well, you see. My son’s replaced my waves. I haven’t surfed or been in the ocean for nearly five years.

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