Welding Complete by Michael A. Reeser

Author:Michael A. Reeser
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Cool Springs Press
Published: 2017-03-09T05:00:00+00:00

Tack the horizontal leg connectors (G) and then center cross piece (H) that spans between the two leg connectors.

Flip the entire stand over and weld the leg feet (I) to the bottom side of the legs (A). If desired, casters could be added to the bottom for increased mobility. Be sure to pick casters that can lock.

BUILDING THE OUTRIGGERS

Note: 12-gauge square tubing will always slide, one tube inside the other, when they are 1/4" difference in size. More precisely, in order for the outriggers to slide into the outrigger tubes, 12-gauge tubing must be used. 12-gauge tubing has a wall thickness of .110" to .115", so tubes will slide into each other in 1/4" increments. For a tighter fit, 11-gauge seamless tubing can also be used, but seamless tubing is more expensive.

1. Cut outrigger tubes (D) from 11/4 × 11/4", 12-gauge steel to length at 24".

2. Cut the outriggers (E) from 1 × 1, 12-gauge steel to length at 24". Drill a single 3/8" hole on one end of each outrigger. This hole will eventually allow the screw/bolt on the outrigger tube to screw up into the extended outrigger, securely holding it in place when fully extended.

3. Cut the outrigger ends (F) to size at 73/4". Drill two 3/8" holes in them, 2" in from each end.

4. Align an outrigger end (F) 90° to outriggers 1 and 3 (E) at the opposite end of the 3/8" hole you drilled in step 2.

5. Align the other outrigger end 90° to outriggers 2 and 4 (also at the opposite end of the 3/8" hole you drilled in step 2).

6. Use a carpenter’s square to ensure proper alignment, and then clamp in place. Tack an outrigger end to outriggers 1 and 3, then repeat for outriggers 2 and 4. Check for square, and then weld the outrigger ends in place.

7. Drill a 3/8" hole on one end of each outrigger tube (D) underside.

8. Hold the outrigger handle (J) in place over bolt end, and then weld in place.

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