Casneau's guide for artistic dress cutting and making by Casneau Alice A. Mrs

Author:Casneau, Alice A., Mrs. [from old catalog]
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Tags: Dressmaking
Publisher: Boston, Brooks bank note company
Published: 1895-03-25T05:00:00+00:00

Do not try to let it out on the centre front, and so give the figure that flat appearance which is so undesirable.

Fit the basque snugly across the back from armpit to armpit. Allow sufficient width across the bust, and fit it closely around the neck and over the shoulders. In finishing, leave the neck quite high (not enough to wrinkle), and set the collar a little below the neck of the waist.

DIAGRAM VII. .

showing- the waist pressed ready for binding.

CHAPTER IV.

Section 1. Pressing and Binding.

To press the darts, lay the waist on the edge of the board, with the same opened flat. If the material will bear water, moisten a small cloth and run it along line of stitching before pressing. Press from the bottom up, being careful to run the iron to the top of the darts so as not to make a point.

To press the Under-arm Seam.

Turn the basque so that the neck will be toward the right hand, and press from the arm size to the waist-line, being very careful to have the seams laid smooth on the board, and press a straight line.

Keep the waist in the same position (neck toward the right hand), and press centre back seam from the neck down to the waist-line. Press the round back seam from the arm size to the waist-line, being careful not to change the shape of the curve.

Turn the waist, having the bottom toward the right hand, and press the hips from the bottom up on all seams. Then press the shoulder.

Caution. — And let me add here pressing does not mean ironing. Do not iron waist, but press carefully all the seams open, and have them perfectly straight on the board. Do not allow the point of the iron to strike any place. Have the board covered thickly, so that the goods will not shine on the right side, when finished.

Section 2. Binding the Seams.

Begin on the face or cloth side of the seam. Commence to sew the binding on darts, beginning an inch from the bottom of the waist. Stretch the edge of the seam as you sew, smooth out each needleful of finished work, turn binding" at the top of darts (allowing a suf-

ficient quantity to turn without drawing the waist in the least), then run the binding down on the other side of the seam in the same way to within an inch of the bottom of the waist.

Bind the seams, stretching the edges and carefully binding around the scallops, so that the seam will lay perfectly flat when finished. In binding the round seam, stretch the side of seam belonging to the centre back,— that is, the part turning toward the centre,— and bind loosely, so that the seam will not draw, but will lie smoothly from the arm size down to end of basque. The other side of the round seam is full, and so may be easily bound.

Bind the back seam of shoulder on the sJiort ends as well as on edges, so as not to leave unfinished ends on the neck and at the arm size.

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