A complete handbook of tailoring and shop management on the sectional or group system by Deiner Franz F

Author:Deiner, Franz F. [from old catalog]
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Tags: Tailoring
Publisher: New York, F. F. Deiner & company
Published: 1920-03-25T05:00:00+00:00

THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL

This part of the work is generally done by a girl or ? boy apprentice who should be cautioned not to cut material.

SECTION XXVI

BASTER ON POCKETS

The stay should not be wider than \y 2 inches, and should be of linen. If, however, the garment is of the skeleton type, the stay must be of the same material as the pocket, and two inches wide, so that it can be turned in and felled to the bellows pocket instead of to the forepart. Thus the coat will look as if it were fully lined. A hanging pocket of silk may be made on the same principle. The baster who bastes on flaps and pocket facing should also make the welt and breast pocket, and baste for machine-stitching. When machine-sewing is used the baster should baste the pockets and tack the breast-pocket. On second class work the operator sews on flaps, breast-pockets, and facing, without basting. He also does the stitching without basting. Great care should be taken in stitching pockets, especially the right one, as the machine is liable to push the cloth below the flap of pocket forward, causing a break in front of flap, especially where a front fish has been taken out in the forepart. To avoid this break, have the pocket-stay basted a trifle shorter in the front part of right pocket, while on the left pocket the stay should be kept a trifle shorter in the back part of pocket.

SECTION XXVII

MACHINIST THIRD OPERATION

The full directions for stitching pockets have been given in Section VIII, and they apply in every particular to this Section. The work called for in this Section is only performed when garments are fully basted for try-ons

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