Making Victorian Costumes for Men by Sil Devilly

Author:Sil Devilly
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Crowood

Sew the side of the cuff lining to the cuff facing on the top sleeve, sewing as far as possible; a stitch or two by hand will be needed to secure the lining to the mitre.

Bag out the under sleeve button stand, hem and lining. Make a tuck in the side of the lining close to the hemline. Turn through to the right side and press.

Hemming the cuff

Use the instructions for the cuff hem from Chapter 8 for the short jacket under the side heading ‘Cuff hem’.

Buttonholes

Mark and make buttonholes along the top sleeve cuff opening. Again, look at the section in Chapter 8 for the short jacket.

Joining the hind arm sleeve seams

Matching up the cuff trim and balance marks, sew the seam from the corner of the reinforcing triangle on the cuff to the top edges of the sleeve seam. Press the seam open with the button stand lying flat with the opening of the top sleeve.

Pin or tack the sleeve button stand and opening to keep it in place.

Sleeve linings

Make an opposing pair of sleeve linings, sewing the top sleeve to the undersleeve along the front and back seams. Press the seams open.

Join the sleeve lining to the sleeve at the cuff lining. With both the sleeve and sleeve linings inside out, make a pair of the linings and sleeve, slipping the sleeve lining cuff edge over the cuff lining and pinning the seam allowances together. Sew the sleeve lining to the cuff lining, sewing as close to the cuff opening as possible. Hand sew the remaining opening between the cuff lining and sleeve lining closed.

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