Building Art Knife Bolsters by Joe Kertzman
Author:Joe Kertzman [Jensen, John Lewis]
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 978-1-4402-3310-4
Publisher: F+W Media
Published: 2012-07-24T21:00:00+00:00
The author removed the clamp, drawing and tape from the top of the bolster stack. He also painted a layer of Dykem on the top surface.
By scribing an “X” at the center points the author marks out the placement of the holes to drill.
The author lines up a center punch on the crosshairs that indicate placement of the holes.
In the accompanying photo, notice the efficient function of a riffling file; there is just a small concentrated area of the file in contact with the surface of the material. Imagine all the burs that were created as the drill bit passed through from one material layer into the next. The burs can and will actually cause separation of material, even under the pressure of the clamps. The material has to go somewhere! So from here on out, get used to this mantra: Disassemble, de-bur and reassemble!
In the related photo, you can see all of the layers and parts fully disassembled, including the internal structure of the knife: damascus blade, titanium tang wrap/handle core, two titanium liners, and the front-top and bottom bolsters with their under-liners.
At this juncture, it’s a good idea to carefully de-bur the bolster holes in all layers, as well as to give all parts a light, flat rub on 320-grit sandpaper. The sandpaper will ensure that dirt and other particles are removed, and that the parts are clean before reassembly. The next step is to tap (thread) the two bolster holes drilled thus far in all layers of the knife.
Use a 2-56 hand tap to thread the previously drilled holes. Tapping involves patience, above all things, and in order to cut threads into the sides of drilled holes, taps have to be extremely hard. As such, they are brittle and prone to breakage. Use new, sharp taps with cutting fluid.
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