The Sugar Detox by Alpert Brooke Farris Patricia

Author:Alpert, Brooke, Farris, Patricia [Alpert, Brooke; Farris, Patricia]
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9780738216423
Publisher: Da Capo Press
Published: 0101-01-01T00:00:00+00:00

Moisturizers That Repair

Now that you are a pro at moisturizer basics, let’s talk about some of the ingredients that can be used to enhance the benefits of moisturizers. Plenty of ingredients claim to turn back the hands of time, but many of these are nothing more than hope in a jar. To save you the time and money, we have done the homework for you. Our list includes ingredients that can truly improve the appearance of aging skin.

VITAMIN A GETS AN A

Vitamin A and its derivatives are among the most valued compounds in dermatology. Also called retinol, vitamin A has been used extensively for treating aging skin and is available in many over-the-counter moisturizers. Once inside the skin, retinol is converted to the active form of vitamin A called retinoic acid. Retinoic acid repairs skin by attaching to receptors that turn on and off certain cellular functions—specifically, turning on collagen production and turning off collagen breakdown. This increase in dermal collagen is why retinol does such a great job at softening fine lines and wrinkles. Cosmeceuticals containing retinol also lighten pigmentation, reduce the appearance of pores, and improve tone and texture. Look for products that contain retinol or its derivatives; it is generally agreed that retinol itself is the most effective form of vitamin A in over-the-counter products, followed by the derivatives retinaldehyde, retinyl proprionate, and retinyl palmitate, in that order.

The real deal, retinoic acid, is available only by prescription, under such trade names as Retina A, Renova, or Refissa. If you prefer generic products, this product will be labeled “tretinoin” (the t stands for “trans”). While the over-the counter derivatives discussed earlier are effective, they are far less potent than these prescription products. Studies have shown that retinoic acid creams rejuvenate skin by firming and smoothing. Retinoic acid also regulates cell turnover, shedding dead skin cells and leaving skin brighter and more radiant.

So here’s the big question dermatologists so often get asked: Should I buy something over the counter or go to my doctor for a prescription? Dr. Farris usually recommends starting with an over-the-counter vitamin A product, especially if you have sensitive or mature skin. These OTC options are less potent yet still effective. They are also far less irritating. If your skin is oily or acne prone, though, you may be better served with prescription tretinoin. It is important to note that several other prescription forms of vitamin A, including tazarotene and adapalene, are used to treat aging skin. This is where your dermatologist can be helpful in guiding you with product selection. (Products containing prescription forms of vitamin A should not be used during pregnancy.)

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