Noodle Soup by Ken Albala

Author:Ken Albala
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: University of Illinois Press
Published: 2017-03-17T04:00:00+00:00

Braised beef presented elegantly in a simple soup

Traditionally, the tare in a bowl of Japanese ramen can also be a liquid, either shoyu tare, a soy base often combined with sake, mirin, sugar, sesame oil, and other flavorings. Miso is the fermented bean paste; shio translates as “salt” but often includes dried fish, seaweed, and other ingredients to create an umami-rice concentrated essence. Hakodate is the city most closely associated with this kind of ramen flavoring. These are the basic ways ramen soups are categorized as well, though the exceptions are so varied that no rule seems to apply.

PROTEINS

Just as with vegetable garnishes, the proteins can take just about any form your mind may dream up, from a few slices of leftover steak tossed in the pot to an elaborately prepared piece of meat braised, or smoked, or cured in some wonderful way. These turn an ordinary noodle soup into an entire meal, and although they’re not necessary, I think a little protein, maybe 3 ounces per bowl, does improve it immeasurably. I offer many varied techniques in the recipes that follow, but here I want to inspire you to think creatively on your own, using everything from completely humble ordinary meats to extravagances for rare occasions. I also speak in general terms here about techniques that apply equally to flesh, fowl, and fish. Or to be more specific, these work with pork, beef, lamb, chicken, turkey, duck, and any fish or shellfish.

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