Home dressmaking made easy by Hooper Emma Margaret 1865-

Author:Hooper, Emma Margaret, 1865- [from old catalog]
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Publisher: New York, The Economist press
Published: 1896-03-25T05:00:00+00:00

CHAPTER XL

MOURNING STYLES AND MATERIALS.

WITHIN the life of each of us comes the sorrowful time when mourning attire is necessary, and comparatively few know what fabrics should be used during this period or how they should be made up in order to be thoroughly correct. Good mourning, which of course includes crape, is very handsome and refined in its appearance, and, while the first outlay is seemingly expensive, the materials last a long time.

I always prefer Priestley's black goods, for their durability, variety and uniform black. It is an easy matter to know when you receive these fabrics as they are all stamped upon the selvedge with the firm's name. All of the materials mentioned are from this manufacturer. As black gowns are fashionable for those in and out of mourning, it is not an extravagance to buy them of good quality, as they can be cleaned and made over as no other fabric may be.

The deepest mourning is that worn by a widow, who dons Courtauld's English crape for at least a year. Her first dress should be of Eudora, which is a smooth, silk-warp material that may be spoken of as a perfected Henrietta. This latter name, however, has been so abused by using it for all-wool goods that it no lono^er means only a silk-warp fabric. Eudora more than fills its place, possessing a handsome lustre and feel and of a pure silk warp. This trims well with crape and should be made up in the prevailing fashion, without going to the extreme. A skirt, cape and basque usually form the first costume intended for street wear.

In using English crapes see that the crimps run from the left to right, diagonally. Even fine dressmakers sometimes err in making up crape on the wrong side. If cut on the bias crape will present straight lines; it is so pliable that it can be

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