Figures, Faces & Folds: Women's Form and Dress for Artists, Students and Designers by Adolphe Armand Braun
Author:Adolphe Armand Braun [Braun, Adolphe Armand]
Language: eng
Format: azw3
Publisher: Dover Publications
Published: 2017-04-18T16:00:00+00:00
THE PANNIER
The typical Watteau shepherdess effect, the picturesque milkmaid, or the voluminous silken presence of your elderly fairy godmother, the fitted bodice of the first diagram, with its straps across, is taken from an eighteenth-century model, where the front of the corsage was straightened out across a delicately shaped and curved wooden base (see page 62).
The skirt of the pannier costume, which frequently looks quite terrifyingly elaborate, is usually quite simple. The diagrams show how perfectly straight pieces of material gathered in straight lines across the graduated intervals can be bunched up about the waistline in most effective folds. If another straight piece pendant from the shoulders and swinging clear of the back is caught in with the skirt folds, even more complicated draped and trained effects may be obtained with most reassuring simplicity.
We advise any student, before making one of these costumes, to buy several pieces of cheap dressmaker’s lines and experiment for himself.
The side-pieces of the Georgian costume were definitely dependent upon the waist and hips in contrast to the Elizabethan or the crinoline effects; they were side-pieces only, the figure from front to back remaining slender, so that a number of figures wearing this costume give the curious effect of having been run through the mangle and having been pressed out sideways.
The history of the French Revolution would be interesting ground for any student wishing to specialize. The complete change in the costume is so marked, and there are so many artists who have shown it so well—Vernet, Carle and Horace, and many others.
The Incroyables and the Merveilleuses are well known, and the classic revival would be recognized by every one. And for the student there are all those smaller matters of red caps and tricolour stripes that make the history of costume, indeed, the history of its wearers. It will make your studies real and alive, and will show you how to understand these things.
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