Christmas by the Lighthouse by Rebecca Boxall

Author:Rebecca Boxall [Boxall, Rebecca]
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781542009614
Published: 2019-09-11T16:00:00+00:00

Chapter Nineteen

JUDE’S BUCKET LIST:

2. LEARN TO SURF

The day after their afternoon tea, Jude decided to tackle his bucket list, thinking they should focus on something fun in the wake of his period of panic about the short time he had left. Summer had been incredibly patient but he wanted their relationship to go back to being fresh and fun, as it had been just after they’d met – not burdened with his woes.

‘Have either of you surfed before?’ asked the Aussie surf instructor, Chaz, who was tall, bronzed and muscly. He was the definition of ‘cool’ and Jude felt instantly dorky in his rather too-tight wetsuit. It felt like it was choking him.

‘No,’ he answered in a slightly strangled tone.

‘Me neither,’ said Summer. ‘But I’m so excited.’

‘You both swim though, right?’ asked Chaz, a frown momentarily crossing his perfect features.

‘Oh yes,’ agreed Summer, breezily. ‘Shall we get started?’

They began with some instructions on dry land, lying on their boards, making paddling motions with their arms, and then trying to get the hang of pushing up and springing to their feet. This all seemed fairly pointless to Jude. Surely it would be completely different on the water? But he’d always been a good student and he wasn’t going to start rebelling now. After a slightly tedious half an hour on the beach, they were finally told to follow Chaz into the water up to their waists. It was icy, even at this time of year and in a wetsuit, and after a couple of minutes Jude could no longer feel his feet. Summer’s lips went blue.

‘You’ll warm up soon enough once you start moving,’ Chaz assured them, shouting above the splash of the white water. They spent some time chest-deep in water, catching the broken waves and trying to stand up on their boards. After both Jude and Summer had managed this a couple of times, Jude shouted towards Chaz.

‘Mate, can we go in a bit deeper?’ he asked boldly, determined to test his bravery with this challenge.

Chaz looked a bit uncertain but he agreed. ‘Okay, we’ll paddle out a bit deeper – out the back, into the green waves. But guys, you really need to use your chest and arms for this bit. Put a bit of welly into it.’ They did their best and eventually reached Chaz, who’d quickly paddled out. Jude was exhausted already – probably more down to lack of fitness than anything to do with his illness, he had to admit to himself.

‘Here’s a big one coming in,’ Chaz said, scanning the horizon. ‘So remember, you want to jump up on to the board just before the wave rolls in then get your balance and you’re off.’

He made it sound so simple. It wasn’t. Jude and Summer wibbled, wobbled, were battered around and swallowed a huge amount of sea water. They didn’t catch a single wave but they laughed a hell of a lot – both rather pleased that at least the other wasn’t excelling.

‘Right, guys, there’s a bit of a rip developing – can you feel the pull? I think we’d better head in .

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