River Cottage A to Z by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall

Author:Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781408863657
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Published: 2016-04-04T04:00:00+00:00

Crispy Lentil and Roasted Squash Salad with Salsa Verde

Lettuce

Mark Diacono

LATIN NAME

Lactuca sativa

SEASONALITY

Main season May–October but lettuce can be grown in the British Isles all year round

MORE RECIPES

Nasturtium and pink peppercorn soup; Little Gem with crushed broad beans and Parmesan; Curried new potatoes, red onion and lettuce; Spider crab salad; Chicken and blueberry salad with coriander dressing

The selection of lettuce in our shops and markets is ever-increasing. And, of course, if you grow your own lettuce, you’ll have an even greater range of flavours, colours and textures to call on.

There are two main types of lettuce. Most prevalent are those that form definite heads (firm, at least in the centre). Among the best-known ‘heading’ types are the Romaine (or Cos) varieties, which can be tall and elegant, or quite compact, as with ‘Little Gem’. Romaines hold a dressing exceptionally well, making them great salad all-rounders, whether in a simply dressed leaf-fest, or a more substantial affair such as a classic Caesar or Niçoise.

Crispheads (also heading types) are firm and round, and often pale or even white in the centre. Moist, crisp and crunchy, they give a refreshing bite to a salad. ‘Iceberg’ is the ubiquitous crisphead but there are more exciting examples. ‘Reine de Glace’ is the queen – a spike-edged leaf with elegance, lots of flavour and a refined texture. You may find it in a box scheme or market, or you could try growing some yourself.

Butterheads (pictured next) are altogether more relaxed, with thin, almost oily leaves. These are the old-fashioned lettuce we used to eat with tomatoes and salad cream. They have been superseded to a large extent by the crunchy and the crisp, but try a tender butterhead and you’ll be reminded how lovely and flavoursome they can be. ‘Buttercrunch’ (old-school green in colour) and the multicoloured ‘Marvel of Four Seasons’ are the stand-out butterheads. Soft and, yes, buttery, they are fabulous dressed only in good olive oil and salt.

The second main category of lettuce comprises those with loose leaves. Far too idle to create a centre, these loll about in the sun, their often deeply lobed leaves moving with the wind. Don’t let that fool you: the likes of ‘Lollo Rosso’ and green (or red) ‘Oak Leaf’ are delicious and come with a certain delicacy of texture.

The main British lettuce season runs from mid-May until October, though different varieties and protected growing – using fleece or polytunnels – can extend the season.

Whichever lettuce you are using, the importance of the dressing is hard to overstate. Few lettuces have a full-on flavour. They are more often subtle, even borderline bland, but with the right dressing – be it a classic vinaigrette, a honey-mustard dressing or a lively blue cheese and orange mix – the leaves are taken in quite different directions.

The very best, sweetest lettuce should be eaten raw as soon after harvest as possible, though kept in the bottom of the fridge, its lifespan can be extended by a few days. But lettuce can be cooked

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