Where to Drink Wine by Chris Losh

Where to Drink Wine by Chris Losh

Author:Chris Losh
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: ebook
Publisher: Quadrille Publishing Ltd
Published: 2018-08-29T16:00:00+00:00


MOSEL

MARKUS MOLITOR

Markus Molitor is proof of both the journey that German wine is on, and also of what it is capable. He took over the family business in 1984, at a time when the world was moving away from the country’s wines at some speed, and with a combination of intelligence, hard work and self-belief has created a high-quality wine business.

Studiously shunning anything to do with mass-market, labour-saving devices, he turned to the ideas of the past: trying to grow great grapes on great sites, however much effort it might take. In the Mosel, frequently, it takes a lot, since ‘great sites’ usually mean the steep slatey terraces that head down to the river, and to work them requires commitment, time, patience – and strong leg muscles.

On the west bank of the river, looking towards Zeltingen, the winery has views out over some of the region’s most famous vineyards: Schlossberg, Himmelreich and Sonnenuhr. Built in the 19th century, the old building has been brilliantly restored, and the new Vinothek is particularly impressive.

You can’t visit the winery, but a small fee gets you a tasting of eight wines in the Vinothek, and, best of all, it’s not pre-set – you get to choose from over 40 that are typically available. There’s Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir, but if you’ve any sense, you’ll home in on the Rieslings. There are wines from 20 grand cru sites across the Mosel, including vintages for some going back over ten years. It’s a chance to see how well this grape can age.

If you want to visit vineyards, head to nearby Ürzig, where a quick clamber up the slopes will reward you with a fine panorama of the steeply sloping vineyards.

SA PRÜM

The Prüm family have been growing grapes in the Mosel for almost 900 years, so it’s no surprise they’re widely recognised as one of the heavyweight names in the region. They are all about Riesling, in all its variations, and have bottles from dry through off-dry to the ultra-unctuous Eiswein.

Their best vineyards are on the famous Wehlener Sonnenuhr – named after the square white sundial that sits on the hill. Designed by an ancestor in 1842, it gives you a clue as to what makes this place special. On these slatey inclines, vines soak up sunshine, while the rocky soil absorbs heat and radiates it gently back up on to the grapes. The result: long, slow ripening, despite a climate that’s warm rather than hot.

Visits here include a cellar tour and a tasting of eight wines, though for added atmosphere, you might consider staying in the guesthouse next to the winery, which allows you to explore the terroir at your leisure. Breakfast on the terrace, with views out over vines and river should really get you in the mood for a day of Riesling exploration. There are any number of trails up into the vineyards, varying from gentle to calf-knottingly steep: the panorama is worth it.

If you’d rather cycle, there’s a (hearteningly flat) cycle path that runs along the edge of the river that’s ideal for a gentle day’s pottering.



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