The Perfumes The A-Z Guide by Luca Turin

Author:Luca Turin
Language: eng
Format: epub

missing a step. If you’re Red Hot Riding Hood and a hungry wolf just rang the bell, this is the one for

you. LT

Heure Exquise (Annick Goutal) ★ ★ ★ ★ animalic iris

Goutal’s style of refined, unobtrusive, classical florals can suffer from feeling too prim and well

mannered, easy to admire but hard to love, like tightly tailored clothing that, while beautiful, makes it

hard to walk. Heure Exquise is one Goutal that I genuinely love: a rich galbanum-and -iris

composition close to Chanel No. 19 but, in contrast to the neurotic feeling of the Chanel, with a

generous, warm backdrop of woody and animalic notes that feels like falling into a featherbed. TS

High Intensity (Mary Kay) ★ ★ sweet citrus

Boring, cheap, but not particularly offensive citrus-balsamic-sweet confection intended for the male

of the species. Smells like shampoo. LT

Higher (Dior) ★ ★ fruity sporty

Yes, please, next time aim higher. A sporty fougère with a hissy pear top note. TS

Higher Energy (Dior) ★ citrus sport

I’ve run out of things to say about these horrible sporty masculines. TS

Himalaya (Creed) ★ ★ soapy pepper

Washed-out pink pepper confection, overexposed by three stops. LT

Hindu Kush (profumo.it) ★ ★ ★ ★ resinous oakmoss

If your favorite part of Mitsouko is the resinous, floor-wax-and-church-incense start, here it is in the

pure state, made with only natural materials and delicious, though not particularly long-lasting. LT

Hiris (Hermès) ★ sad iris

Olivia Giacobetti is responsible for several masterpieces, including Dzing! and Premier Figuier, both

for L’Artisan Parfumeur. Those are truly great insofar as she manages to break with her usual manner:

delicate florals with a pale, sour note reminiscent of clothes washed with unscented fabric softener.

Sadly, Hiris is part of this contingent, with the rooty iris note adding a remote, pinched temperament

to the overall effect. ’Orrible. LT

HM (Hanae Mori) ★ ★ ★ lavender green

(Dilly dilly.) This is one of these terrifying mutant fruity herbals that come on like lavenders on

steroids, built out of screechy synthetics (woody plus green plus fruity), but in this version, at least the

whole thing is nicely buttressed with fruity cassis and a garden’s worth of girly flowers. When it

comes to masculines, I’ve smelled much worse, although this is probably a bit more powerful than

one would like. A ghost of Angel haunts the top note. TS

L’Homme (Yves Saint Laurent) ★ ★ woody citrus

If Pierre Bourdon had, over the years, got due credit and collected a buck for every bottle sold

containing a Cool Water clone, he would be richer than Berlusconi and more famous than Edith Piaf.

Thousands of young kids would grow up in French suburbs dreaming of becoming perfumers, the

Collège de France would house the Perfumery School, and the Louvre the Osmothèque (with the

Impressionists moved to a refrigerated basement in Versailles). LT

L’Homme de Coeur (Divine) ★ ★ ★ ★ woody iris

What a great start: Yann Vasnier’s brilliant composition begins with a beautiful fresh-peppery

juniper-cypress accord, which smoothly morphs to a luxurious woody-iris second subject, against a

fresh, slightly smoky background of vetiver. Superbly judged, rich, complex masculine, best worn on

fabric to maintain its proportions and delay the drydown. LT

L’Homme Sage

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