The Juice by Jay McInerney

Author:Jay McInerney [McInerney, Jay]
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 978-0-307-95753-5
Publisher: Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group
Published: 2012-05-07T16:00:00+00:00

By the mid-nineties it seemed the modernists had won the battle, promoting a richer, darker, and yet softer style of Nebbiolo that could be enjoyed much sooner than the old-school juice. I like to call them wines of cleavage, hey-there-big-boy reds that seem designed to grab the attention of critics looking for the wow factor. These wines were making stars of their makers even as they revitalized the moribund local agricultural economy. But a few loyalists, myself included, couldn’t help noticing that some of the new-school wines from the eighties weren’t aging all that well, that they were either cracking up or failing to evolve over time into something more interesting, which is the mark of truly great wine and one of the particular glories of Barolo. Far from achieving greatness after thirty or forty years, like, say, the 1964 Giacomo Conterno Monfortino or the 1982 Bruno Giacosa Santo Stefano, they were washing out before they hit their teens.

“The only way we can survive,” says Luca Currado, the cosmopolitan proprietor of Vietti, “is to make a wine that reflects the region.” Currado stands somewhere in the middle of the debate, which seems like a good place to be.

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