The Core of an Onion by Mark Kurlansky

The Core of an Onion by Mark Kurlansky

Author:Mark Kurlansky
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing


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Swiss-born Oscar Tschirky, maître d’hôtel of the Waldorf and of Delmonico’s before that, was one of the most influential restaurateurs of New York’s Gilded Age. In his 1896 Cook Book by “Oscar” of the Waldorf he offers three onion sauces, two of which are fairly standard, but then there is his “Onion Sauce with Vinegar”:

Peel three good-sized onions, mince them fine, place them over the fire with a lump of butter and fry over a brisk fire until brown. Sift a tablespoonful of flour over the onions, pour two gills of water and season with salt, pepper, mustard, and vinegar to taste. Stir the sauce over the fire and boil until quite smooth. It is then ready for use.

Tschirky recommends his onion sauces for “roasted or boiled shoulder of mutton, tripe, ducks, or rabbit”—which demonstrates why one doesn’t see onion sauces very often today. Who eats a shoulder of mutton?



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