Spirits Distilled by Mark Ridgwell

Author:Mark Ridgwell
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Infinite Ideas
Published: 2016-08-29T16:00:00+00:00

Map of the Cognac delimited region

Grande Champagne accounts for approximately 18% of this AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée). This is the most prestigious area, rich in thick campanian chalk slopes and sheltered from the westerly winds. The region is south of the town of Cognac. Grapes here are full of acidity and produce the best cognacs, delicate and elegant but needing more than fifteen years of maturation to reach their best.

Petite Champagne accounts for approximately 21% of this AOC region. It is an area of santonian chalk, so-called because of the historical name for the area. These brandies are influenced more by a combination of the warmer inland climate to the east and colder maritime weather to the west. They are less intense, more floral and mature more quickly.

Fine Champagne is not an area but a description of cognac made only from the two Champagne areas, with at least 50% coming from the Grande Champagne.

Borderies accounts for approximately 5% of this AOC region, the smallest area that lies to the north and west of Cognac. Here, the soil contains more flint and clay. Grapes ripen earlier to produce the most distinctive, intense, full-bodied brandies that mature more quickly and give guts to any blend.

Fins Bois accounts for around 42% of this AOC region, surrounding Borderies and the two Champagne areas. The area provides the bulk of all cognac. Its soft brown glacial chalk, sand and clay produce heavier fruity, fragrant and quick maturing cognacs, the backbone of younger bottlings. However, the area is huge and so generalizations are difficult.

Quality cognacs now use grapes only from the four areas above. The two areas below are increasingly marginal and vine-free.

Bons Bois accounts for approximately 12% of this AOC region and surrounds the outer edges of Fins Bois. Here quality declines owing to the predominance of sand but exceptions can be found where the soil is more chalky.

Bois Ordinaires makes up approximately 2% of this AOC region. The area borders the sea and includes the islands of Ré and Oléron. Here, the chalk gives way almost entirely to sand and the influence of the sea is considerable. The cognac is relatively quick maturing with distinct maritime influences such as hints of salt and algae.

COGNAC GRAPES

Climate in all the areas is relatively mild. Grapes rarely ripen and so retain their acidity. The wines are thin and sour providing poor quality table wine. However these same characteristics mean they are ideal for distillation.

The Ugni Blanc grape

In the Cognac region grape juice is integral to the finished spirit but not as important as it is for wine. The balance of fruit and acidity in the grape is more important than the grape’s flavour. Too much flavour and the brandy will be unbalanced. A few acres are planted with Folle Blanche and Colombard grapes, both very popular before the phylloxera blight and both able to provide attractive aromatics to any blend. Today the dominant grape, accounting for around 98% of production, is the white, neutral, late-ripening Ugni Blanc, also called Saint Emilion or Trebbiano.

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