Rick Steves Spain by Rick Steves

Author:Rick Steves
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Avalon Publishing
Published: 2021-03-15T00:00:00+00:00

Carry on through more rooms, including the Pine Cone Room, where 392 pinecone-shaped adornments hang from the Mudejar ceiling. The Royal Bedroom is made cozy by hanging tapestries on the stony walls.

Pause to savor the striking Hall of the Monarchs. The upper walls feature statues of the 52 rulers of Castile and León who presided during the long and ultimately successful Reconquista (711-1492): from Pelayo (the first, over the room’s exit door and a bit to the left), clockwise to Juana VII (the last). There were only seven queens during the period (the numbered ones).

From here, head through the small, window-lined Cord Room (decorated with the cord-like belts of the Franciscan order) to reach the chapel. As you face the main altar, notice the painting in the center of the altar on your left: A scene of St. James the Moor-Slayer—with Muslim heads literally rolling at his feet. James is the patron saint of Spain. His name was the rallying cry in the centuries-long Christian crusade to push the Muslim Moors back into Africa.

Exiting the royal rooms, step into the modest armory. The finest item is the 16th-century, ornately carved ivory crossbow, with a hunting scene shown in the accompanying painting.

From the armory, step out onto the terrace (the site of the original Roman military camp, circa AD 100; may be closed in winter and in bad weather). Taking in its vast views, marvel at the natural fortification provided by this promontory cut by the confluence of two rivers. The Alcázar marks the end (and physical low point) of the gradual downhill course of the nine-mile-long Roman aqueduct. Can you find the mountain nicknamed Mujer Muerta (“dead woman”)?

On your way back out, you can cut through the Museum of Artillery, recalling the period (1764-1862) when this was the royal artillery school. It shows the evolution of explosive weaponry, with old photos and prints of the Alcázar.

Finally, back at the drawbridge, you can choose to climb the tower. Hiking 152 steps up a tight spiral staircase rewards you with sweeping views over town and the countryside.

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