Insight Guides Norway (Travel Guide eBook) by Insight Guides

Author:Insight Guides
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Travel, Norway
Publisher: Apa Publications
Published: 2023-04-26T00:00:00+00:00

Between Otta and Grotli only two roads go south, penetrating to the heart of Jotunheimen. Road 51, the most easterly, leaves the Otta–Grotli road at Randen and heads into the Valdres region. It starts by climbing into an area of upland pastures with a distant backdrop of mountains. A further climb to Darthus brings Ridderspranget › [map] (Knight’s Leap) close at hand, where the Sjoa River is channelled into a narrow gorge.

Lakes lie scattered across to the west, while beyond looms the peak of Glittertind. The most important stretch of water is Lake Gjende fi [map] , long and narrow and curving slightly to the southwest. Beyond Bessheim there are more inspiring views, and this scenic feast continues for kilometre after kilometre.

Bygdin lies between two lakes: Lake Bygdin stretches like a long finger pointing to more distant mountains in the west; eastwards is the major expanse of Lake Vinstri. There are boat trips on several of the lakes, and Lake Bygdin has northern Europe’s highest scheduled boat service, in waters 1,060 metres (3,477ft) above sea level.

The heart of the Valdres

Between Bessheim and Bygdin the road reaches its highest point – 1,389 metres (4,557ft). From here it descends, first to the tree line, then to more gentle scenery at Beitostølen. This winter sports resort has nine lifts, 12 runs and more than 325km (200 miles) of cross-­country tracks. It is a typical village of its kind with several hotels – very popular for cross-country skiing – and a school for disabled and blind skiers.

Fagernes fl [map] is at the heart of the Valdres area. Its main attraction is the large Valdres Folk Museum (Folkemuseum; www.valdresmusea.no; daily June and Aug 10am–4pm, July 10am–5pm, Sept–May Mon–Fri 10am–3pm), which features some 95 buildings built between 1200 and 1900. Of particular interest are a 16th-century tapestry, medieval chests, a collection of antique silver, folk-music instruments and hunting weapons. This area has several stave churches, including those at Hedalen, Reinli, Lomen, Høre, Øye, Hegge and Garmo. Fagernes is also the birthplace of rakfisk, one of Norway’s strangest delicacies – brine-cured fish, usually trout or char, that has been left to ferment for several months before being eaten.

In one direction the E16 heads southeast through the Begnadal valley and eventually to Hønefoss. In the opposite direction the road goes west through more exciting scenery on the southern edge of Jotunheimen. At Tyinkrysset a road goes off to Øvre Årdal on Årdalsfjord while the E16 turns south, descending through forested scenery to Borgund ‡ [map] . Borgund stave church (www.stavechurch.com; May to mid-June and mid-Aug to Sept 10am–5pm, mid-June to mid-Aug 8am–8pm) is regarded as the most typical and best preserved in Norway. Built in 1150, it is dedicated to St Andrew.

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