Higher than Everest by Flore Dussey

Author:Flore Dussey
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Biography & Autobiography/Adventures & Explorers
Publisher: Pen and Sword
Published: 2022-12-31T00:00:00+00:00

CHAPTER FIFTEEN

ARRANGED MARRIAGE

KHAMSU HAS BEEN PROMISED TO Dali, a young girl from the Goperma tribe of Gonthala. The marriage has been arranged by their parents and even though the young girl is very beautiful, and he likes her a great deal, Khamsu still believes he is not mature enough for such a big step. A stubborn young man, he resists the decision, determined that no argument can make him change his mind. He manages to convince his father to send him to Kathmandu so that he can earn more money by working for the trekking expeditions. Surely the wedding can wait?

It is the end of the monsoon season and his cousin from Gonthala, who is working as a sirdar with a big agency, has promised him three successive expeditions. His salary will be 400 rupees ($3.50) a day for two months. A good start. If he proves himself, however, he is told he’ll be able to join an expedition to Everest the following spring. Although trekking on the icefall is dangerous work, he knows the payoff will be worth it.

Fortunately, his skills are soon recognized, and, within a few seasons, he is given more and more interesting assignments. Unfortunately, his ascent up the porter hierarchy is limited by his lack of education and poor command of English. But, as he says to himself, Ké garné? What can you do?

During one expedition, Khamsu is asked to lead a team of porters to Upper Dolpo, while the client tourists are flown directly to Jumla, accompanied by their sirdar. The monsoon has not quite finished with them yet, however. It rains several hours a day, making the paths muddy and difficult to navigate, and meaning the porters’ clothes are permanently wet. Even worse, it would appear the sirdar has not planned ahead well enough and after three days of walking, the food is starting to run out. The Nepalese are furious and hold Khamsu responsible, even threatening to strike. When they arrive in Jumla, the sirdar even accuses him of having resold the food. During the rest of the expedition, the quarrels will severely tarnish the atmosphere, and for Khamsu, who always appreciates friendship and conviviality, the accusation is unbearable.

On another expedition, Khamsu finds himself clinging to the fixed rope on Makalu’s steep slopes. He is just under 5,000 metres above sea level, caught in the eye of a fierce storm. Once they reach base camp, the small group of porters spend the night outside, huddled against each other, shivering, with only a tarpaulin for protection. Ten metres away, in a furnished canteen, the kuires eat hot soup and laugh out loud, wrapped up in their big down jackets. Once the climbers have finished their meal, the Nepalese are allowed to share the leftover food and barricade themselves in the communal tent.

During this particular trip, carried out at the beginning of the 1980s, the porters are given no extra clothing and have to content themselves with their own outfits, which are completely unsuitable for the high altitude.

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