Frommer's Vienna and the Danube Valley by Dardis McNamee

Author:Dardis McNamee
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Wiley
Published: 2011-01-25T00:00:00+00:00

Josefstadt (8th District)

Moderate

Alte Backstube HUNGARIAN/VIENNESE This spot is worth visiting just to admire the baroque sculptures that crown the top of the doorway. The building was designed as a private home in 1697, and 4 years later it was transformed into a bakery, complete with wood-burning stoves. For more than 2 1/2 centuries, the establishment served the baking needs of the area. In 1963, the owners added a dining room, a dainty front room for drinking beer and tea, and a collection of baking-related artifacts. Once seated, you can order such wholesome, robust dishes as braised pork with cabbage, Viennese-style goulash, and roast venison with cranberry sauce and bread dumplings. There’s an English-language menu if you need it. Try the house special dessert, cream-cheese strudel with hot vanilla sauce.

Lange Gasse 34. 01/4061101. www.backstube.at. Reservations required. Main courses 10€–19€. MC, V. Tues–Thurs and Sat–Sun noon–midnight; Fri 5pm–midnight. Closed mid-July to Aug 30. U-Bahn: Rathaus. Go east along Schmidgasse to Lange Gasse.

Die Fromme Helene ★ AUSTRIAN This is the kind of upscale tavern where the food is traditional and excellent, the crowd is animated and creative, and the staff is hip enough to recall the names of the many actors, writers, and politicians who come here regularly. Part of its theatrical allure derives from a location that’s close to several of the city’s theaters (including the English Theater); and to prove it, there are signed and framed photographs of many of the quasi-celebrity clients who have eaten and made merry here. Expect a wide range of traditional and well-prepared Austrian dishes, including schnitzels of both veal and pork. The establishment’s enduring dish is alt Wiener Backfleisch, a long-marinated and spicy version of steak that’s breaded, fried, and served with potato salad. The restaurant’s name derives from the comic-book creation of a 19th-century illustrator, Wilhelm Busch, whose hard-drinking but well-meaning heroine, “pious Helen,” captivated the imagination of the German-speaking world.

15 Josefstädter Strasse. 01/4069144. www.frommehelene.at. Reservations recommended. Main courses 11€–20€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–1am. Tram: J to Theater in der Josefstadt.

Piaristenkeller AUSTRIAN A vast cavern with centuries-old vaulted ceilings, this place was founded in 1697 by Piarist monks as a tavern and wine cellar. The kitchen, which once served the cloisters, still dishes out traditional Austrian dishes based on original recipes. Zither music starts at 7:30pm, and in summer the garden at the church square is open from 11am to midnight. Wine and beer are available whenever the cellar is open. Advance booking is required for a guided tour of the cloister’s old wine vaults.

Piaristengasse 45. 01/4059152. www.piaristenkeller.at. Reservations recommended. Main courses 14€–22€. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 6pm–midnight. U-Bahn: Rathaus.

Schnattl ★ AUSTRIAN Even the justifiably proud owner of this place, Wilhelm (Willy) Schnattl, dismisses its decor as a mere foil for the presentation of his sublime food. Schnattl is near Town Hall, a location convenient for most of the city’s journalists and politicians, and features a bar area and a medium-size dining room, an inviting, intimate space of enormous comfort and charm.

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