Cheese Beer Wine Cider by Steve Jones

Author:Steve Jones
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Countryman Press
Published: 2019-03-22T16:00:00+00:00

CHEESE

VON TRAPP

Oma

country of origin

United States (Vermont)

family

Washed-rind

milk

Cow

alternatives

Tulip Tree Foxglove

Cato Corner Farm Hooligan

Durrus

WINE

DOMAINE LEON BOESCH

“Pierres Rouges” Sylvaner

country of origin

France

style

Alsace Sylvaner

other suggestions

M. Chapoutier Schieferkopf Sylvaner

Trimbach Sylvaner

ABOUT THE CHEESE: Three generations of von Trapps (yes, Sound of Music fans, those von Trapps) have owned and cared for the land in northern Vermont upon which the von Trapp Farmstead sits and their Jersey cows roam, but cheesemaking only entered the picture in 2009. Sebastian von Trapp named his creamery’s first cheese Oma after his grandmother Erika (oma is German for “grandma”), and it’s a beauty. With a firm, puddinglike consistency at room temperature, an earthy rind, and big funky flavors of brine, bacon fat, and salted peanuts, Oma easily holds its own on any cheese plate. von Trapp has aligned closely with Jasper Hill Farm to age Oma in its massive man-made, dynamite-blasted, temperature-controlled caves alongside cheeses from such creamery giants as Cabot or smaller operations like Scholten Family Farm.

GOES BEST WITH: Alsace sylvaner. Once Germany’s most-planted wine grape, the high-acid Sylvaner (or Silvaner) has dropped off in popularity over the past century, but you’ll still find it claiming plenty of vineyard real estate in certain areas. It’s often criticized for its neutral flavors, but the grape is capable of producing wines ranging from bone dry to full-bodied, with plenty of nuance in between. The Alsace region produces some of the most underappreciated and food-friendly wines in the world (sylvaner is aces with Alsatian Munster, page 118), so it’s no small wonder it’s brilliant with many different cheeses.

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