American Wine by Tom Acitelli

Author:Tom Acitelli
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Chicago Review Press
Published: 2015-03-11T04:00:00+00:00

The soaring trajectory of interest in wine owes much to revolutions in technology, transportation, communications and food in general, but it all traces back to 1982.

It’s a clear dividing line between the end of the old way of making and thinking about wine, and a new way that, for better or worse, defines our current age.

From 1983 onward, the story of American fine wine becomes an exploration of the aftereffects of the clear dividing line between Parker’s gushing praise of the ’82 Bordeaux and Finigan’s lamentation of the same. This divisive nature itself explains why any history of American fine wine has to include the critical assessment of a vintage from a French region down on its luck. The ’82 Bordeaux arrived at a convergence of trends: the peaking of the spending power of the baby boomers; the unpenning of an international economic bull market; Americans’ ballooning interest in all things enological, manifested by new publications and tastemakers, wine tourism, and voyeurism (think: the auctions); greatly increased sales through the fighting varietals and White Zinfandel; even one of the biggest television shows in prime time. On the earlier side of the dividing line, before 1983, things were simpler, with fewer characters and a clearer-cut trajectory toward critical respectability and commercial success for American fine wine. On the other side of the line drawn by the ’82 Bordeaux is a more complicated movement, with many more players—and a lot more at stake.

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