Amarone and the fine wines of Verona by Michael Garner

Author:Michael Garner
Language: nld
Format: epub
Publisher: Infinite Ideas Ltd

Fumane

The vineyard area of Fumane is clustered largely around the mouth of the valley and split into two main sections by the presence of the Colle Incisa. This steep-sided limestone spur is mainly planted to vines on its summit – an area known as Costa delle Coronne – and is otherwise well known for the Madonna de La Salette sanctuary which is plainly visible partway up the hillside as you enter the valley from the south, passing the Secondo Marco winery. To the west of the hill, the road snakes up past Allegrini’s Palazzo della Torre estate, flanking Marega and Zeno Zenigli’s Monte dei Ragni vineyards, towards Mazzurega. The village is surrounded by vineyards and Cottini own some 15 hectares at their Campiano estate. Mazzurega is also a source of grapes for another of Cantina di Negrar’s Amarone Espressioni. Higher still lies Cavarena, the source of Allegrini’s Amarone, and above which their premium Amarone vineyard Fieramonte is located. The Tedeschi family’s 7-hectare La Fabriseria sits close by and partially overlaps into Sant’Ambrogio as do the vineyards at the top of the Monte Solane ridge where Tenute Ugolini and Gamba Gnirega both own land. Lower down the slopes and between Mazzurega and the Colle Incisa, the Custoza-based winery, Monte del Tra’s estate is located in the ‘Lena di Mezzo’ area. At nearby Cavolo, are some of the highest vineyards in Classico. Though only a short distance as the crow flies from Fumane itself, the frazione of Cavolo (less than four hundred inhabitants) also sits at 600 metres, an indication of just how steep this western side of the valley can be. The main vineyard owners around Cavolo are Accordini and Scriani. The most southerly extension of Cavolo lies just above the Costa delle Coronne vineyards. The style of the wines produced on the western slopes of Fumane is clearly affected by the altitude of the vineyards and the cool, well-ventilated growing conditions: salient characteristics are the broad, intense, spicy aromas and lively acidity of these typically elegant and sometimes rather lean wines.

To the east of the Colle Incisa, the Via Progni heads up towards the village of Molina in Lessinia and on the eastern side of the valley opposite the hill, the vineyards begin on the south-facing slopes of Monte Santoccio. The vineyards below at Maghi and Osan occupy the steep incline which drops to the very edge of the village of Fumane itself. Two smaller wineries, Monte Santoccio and Ca dei Maghi, own vines in the area. This hillside curves round into one of Fumane’s most prestigious vineyards, Monte Sant’Urbano, a long south-west-facing ridge (Speri are the major landowners) which tapers down into Monte Gradella from where Santa Sofia and Sartori both produce limited edition bottlings. The gradients on this side of the valley are usually rather more gentle and the land lower lying, which gives rise to an elegant, balanced and riper style of wine. Adjacent to Monte Gradella are the vineyards of Casterna where the Valentina Cubi winery is based.

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