Wine Wars by Mike Veseth

Author:Mike Veseth [Veseth]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc.
Published: 2011-06-12T16:00:00+00:00

10

Everyone’s a Critic

Wine critics are the bond-rating agencies of the wine market. Their scores and written reviews give many wine buyers the confidence they need to make what really is a risky purchase. At their best, wine critics serve a useful function of reducing uncertainty about what’s in that bottle and whether it is worth the price.

But wine critics are often accused of playing a less-than-useful role. Jancis Robinson, one of the most influential critics in the world, accused her profession of displaying “parasitical” behavior.1 Robert Parker, the American wine expert who publishes The Wine Advocate, is often accused of exercising undue influence over the wine industry. If you want to get ahead in the global wine market, it is said, you need to make big wines to suit his particular taste. High “Parker numbers” are a guarantee of market success, they say.

Everyone has opinions about wine—everyone’s a critic—but some opinions matter more than others. The future of wine will depend in part on who wields palate power and how. That’s cause enough to provoke an investigation of wine critics and their discontents.

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