The Rockies of Canada by Walter Wilcox

Author:Walter Wilcox
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 978-1-926855-41-7
Publisher: RMB | Rocky Mountain Books
Published: 2011-01-01T00:00:00+00:00

Chapter IX

Exploring the Vermilion

PLAN TO EXPLORE AN INTERESTING REGION—DESOLA-TION VALLEY—UNUSUAL AUGUST SNOWSTORMS—FIRST VIEW OF MORAINE LAKE—ITS MARVELLOUS BEAUTY—WE INVESTIGATE A NEIGHBOURING STREAM—ALPINE LAKES—SLOW PROGRESS THROUGH THE PATHLESS WOODS—A DESERTED MINING CAMP—FIND SOME USEFUL PROVISIONS—OUR HORSES DISAPPEAR—ALONE IN THE WILDERNESS—RELIEF AT LAST—MAGNIFICENT VIEW OF THE VERMILION PASS—ANOTHER LARGE LAKE DISCOVERED—CURIOUS IMPURITIES IN THE WATER—EXPLORE TWO VALLEYS IN BRITISH COLUMBIA— A PROSPECTOR’S CAMP—PEYTO’S HORSES LEAVE HIM— A TREACHEROUS RAFT—BAFFLED BY MINERS’ TRAILS— REAL SOURCE OF THE VERMILION

A region that is sure to be popular in the near future lies south of Lake Louise. For many years it had been an object of my ambition to explore this part of the Rockies, which, though skirted on two sides by the railroad, was not mapped in its interior. That there were many wonders of natural scenery hidden away among those rugged peaks seemed most probable. But it was not till 1899 that I could arrange my plans to visit this easily accessible part of the mountains. It might be described as the Summit Range of the Rockies between the Bow River on the east, the Vermilion and Ottertail rivers on the west, the Kicking Horse Pass on the north, and the Vermilion Pass on the south. It was my idea to skirt round the outer edge of this nearly rectangular block of mountains, whose area was about 300 square miles, and to ascend every stream and valley which offered a route into the interior.

To facilitate our progress through an unmapped and trailless region, where good nature and patience would, no doubt, be put to the final test in overcoming countless unforeseen obstacles, I reduced my outfit to the minimum size. It consisted of one man, Ross Peecock, upon whose good nature I justly placed great reliance, and four horses, two of which we rode.

We left the chalet at Lake Louise on the 13th of August, and crossing the bridge which had recently been made over the stream from the lake, left the trail and entered the woods. Following a nearly level traverse, we reached the mouth of Paradise Valley in two hours. Our journey for the next two or three hours was through swampy meadows or heavy forests, till at length the slopes falling away to the south, and glimpses of new mountains appearing through the trees, showed that Desolation Valley had been reached. The woods were open and easy to travel. As we descended some gently sloping meadows, the grand range of jagged peaks on the south of Desolation Valley came into view. A few minutes later we were at the border of the valley stream, which flows in shallow rapids over a bed of rusty-coloured stones. We made camp higher up the valley, where the stream expands to a width of 100 yards and makes a chain of pools decorated with low islands. A strong south wind and threatening sky caused us to put our tent up quickly, as a storm could be seen coming over the mountains, and in a short time a warm summer rain was falling.

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