Secrets of the Sommeliers by Rajat Parr

Author:Rajat Parr [Parr, Rajat]
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 978-1-60774-091-9
Publisher: Potter/TenSpeed/Harmony
Published: 2010-12-11T16:00:00+00:00

GOUR NOIR

CHEESE

In the last few years, centuries of food and wine pairing tradition have been invalidated all because of a single discovery: red wine is generally not a good match with cheese. In the 1999 New York Times article “Why Red Wine and Cheese Have Stopped Going Steady,” Roger Dagorn, wine director of New York’s Porter House (though famous for his thirty years at the late Chanterelle), says it all: “Red wine with cheese is an old myth. White wine is livelier and has more acidity, which balances the fattiness of the cheese.” There you have it. Stop breaking your tongue in half by trying to force Bordeaux into your mouth after its just held Camembert.

Of course, as the article notes, the custom exists for practical reasons. Most diners will still have a half glass or so of red left after the main course and will simply continue drinking it when the cheese is served. This is not the sommelier way. Here is a better plan: With the first course, have a nice bottle of white wine, such as a white Burgundy, Chenin Blanc, or Sancerre. But rather than finishing the bottle, drink only half of it and set it aside. After the main course, have a light salade verte or other palate cleanser. And then, when the cheese course comes out, your wine will be waiting for you on the sideboard.

Even though the white wine and cheese assertion is largely true, it cannot be assumed in all cases. The world of both cheese and wine is so nuanced and diverse that pairing them must be approached on a case-by-case basis. Here are a few that come up frequently.

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