Rick Steves' Florence & Tuscany 2014 by Rick Steves

Author:Rick Steves
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Avalon Travel
Published: 2013-09-10T04:00:00+00:00

Eating Cheaply in the Oltrarno

(See “Oltrarno Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)

Trattoria Sabatino, farthest away and least touristy of my Oltrarno listings, is a spacious, brightly lit mess hall. You get the feeling it hasn’t changed much since it opened—in 1956. It’s disturbingly cheap, with family character and a simple menu—a super place to watch locals munch, especially since you’ll likely be sharing a table. You’ll find it just outside Porta San Frediano, a 15-minute walk from Ponte Vecchio (€4 pastas, €6 secondi, Mon-Fri 12:00-14:30 & 19:15-22:00, closed Sat-Sun, Via Pisana 2 red, see map on here, tel. 055-225-955, little English spoken). Let eating here be your reward after following the stroll in my Oltrarno Walk chapter.

Trattoria Casalinga, an inexpensive standby, comes with aproned women bustling around the kitchen. Florentines and tourists alike pack the place and leave full and happy, with euros to spare for gelato (€7 pastas, €8-10 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-21:45, after 20:00 reserve or wait, closed Sun and Aug, just off Piazza di Santo Spirito, near the church at Via de’ Michelozzi 9 red, tel. 055-218-624, Andrea and Paolo).

Borgo Antico is the hit of Piazza di Santo Spirito, with enticing pizzas, big deluxe plates of pasta, a delightful setting, and a trendy and boisterous young crowd (€8-10 pizza, pasta, and salads, €14-18 secondi, daily 12:00-23:00, best to reserve for a seat on the square, Piazza di Santo Spirito 6 red, tel. 055-210-437, Andrea and Michele—feel his forearm). Volume, the bar next door, is run by the same gang (see here in the Nightlife in Florence chapter).

Caffè Ricchi, next to Borgo Antico, has fine gelato, homemade desserts, shaded outdoor tables, and €4 pasta dishes at lunch. After noting the plain facade of the Brunelleschi church facing the square, step inside the café and pick your favorite picture of the many ways the church might be finished (daily 7:00-24:00, tel. 055-280-830). Ristorante Ricchi, its sister restaurant next door, is more formal, has a larger menu, and also has tables on the square.

Le Volpi e l’Uva, a wine bar just steps from Ponte Vecchio, has a limited menu of affettati (cold cuts), cheese, and crostone (hearty bruschetta)—a nice spot for a light lunch (for details, see the listing on here).

Supermarket: Sapori & Dintorni Conad, just over Ponte Vecchio and to the left, has all you need for a picnic (daily 9:30-20:00).

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