Insight Guides: Provence & the French Riviera by Insight Guides

Insight Guides: Provence & the French Riviera by Insight Guides

Author:Insight Guides
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Tags: Travel, Europe, France, Provence
Publisher: APA


St Maximin-la-Ste-Baume basilica.

Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications

Most modern-day visitors come for the town’s sandy beaches and lively harbour. Another plus is Bandol’s vineyards, spread over 1,000 hectares (2,500 acres) between the Ste-Baume Massif and the coast, around pretty medieval villages such as La Cadière d’Azur and fortified Le Castellet, which produce wines (particularly reds) that are rated among the best in Provence.

About 2km (1 mile) off the coast of Bandol lies the tiny island of Bendor 6 [map], which was enterprisingly transformed into a holiday village in the 1950s by the pastis magnate Paul Ricard. On the island is a hotel, a clutch of rather expensive cafés, and a re-creation of a Provençal fishing village. Though the island has an air of artificiality, its shady paths, lined with mimosa and eucalyptus, and tiny sandy beach are reason enough for a visit. Boats leave regularly from Bandol harbour for the seven-minute crossing (information from Bandol tourist office, Allées Vivien, tel: 04 94 29 41 35).

St-Maximin

On the western edge of the Var lies St-Maximin-la-Ste-Baume 7 [map]. Pilgrims have poured into this town since the 5th century to view one of the greatest Christian relics – the presumed bones of Mary Magdalene, which were discovered here in an ancient crypt. After the Boat of Bethany (click here) landed at Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer in the Camargue, its saintly crew dispersed to preach the word of God throughout Provence. Mary Magdalene is said to have made her way to the Massif de la Ste-Baume, where she lived in a cave for more than 30 years. She died in St-Maximin, where her remains were jealously guarded by the Cassianites.

In 1295 work began on the Eglise Ste-Marie-Madeleine (Place des Prêcheurs; tel: 04 94 59 84 59), founded by Charles II, king of Sicily and count of Provence, as a suitably magnificent receptacle for the relics. The result is the finest Gothic church in Provence, with its tall vaulted nave, Baroque high altar and elaborately carved walnut choirstalls. The well-preserved abbey buildings adjoining the church have been converted into a charming hotel, with a restaurant in the chapter house and cloister.

The Ste-Baume Massif

To the south of St-Maximin, in the heavily forested limestone mountain range of Ste-Baume, is the evocative, dank cave where Mary Magdalene is said to have spent her last years. From the village of Nans-les-Pins, the GR9 long-distance footpath follows the chemin des Rois, the pilgrimage path taken by popes and sovereigns for centuries. Reaching the cave’s entrance involves a strenuous climb through towering beech trees and lush undergrowth (around 40 minutes from the Hôtellerie de la Baume, above the village of Le Plan d’Aups-Ste-Baume). Some 150 stone steps lead up to the cliffside cave. Inside, the dark, dripping recess is filled with altars and saintly effigies. A final effort will bring you to St-Pilon 8 [map], which is almost the highest point of the massif. Mary Magdalene was said to have been lifted up to this peak by angels seven times a day during her years of cave-dwelling.

The massif



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