Champagne by Robert Walters

Author:Robert Walters
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Allen & Unwin
Published: 2017-10-16T04:00:00+00:00

Tasting at the cellars NICOLAS MOGHABGHAB

At first, Selosse’s work caused barely a ripple. Most of the growers who knew what he was up to thought he was mad. Then, as his wines started to receive some acclaim, there were many who openly called him a charlatan or accused him of producing wines that were not ‘true’ Champagnes, because their depth and style differed so much from the norm. Others seemed obsessed by the fact that Selosse was using oak barrels for the maturation of his wines and criticised the style for being too ‘oaky’ or too ‘oxidative’. These are criticisms that can still be heard today. The focus on the style of wine produced by Selosse misses the significance of what he brought back to Champagne: the philosophy that authentic wines are unique wines that reflect their unique terroir and that the only way to make such wines is to encourage a living soil and balanced yields, to harvest fully ripe fruit and to make use of winemaking that allows the terroir to speak as clearly as possible.

Selosse realised that the finest terroirs of Champagne were every bit as interesting as those of the Côte d’Or and, even more significantly, that they could produce unique, vineyard- or commune-specific wines of a standard and interest that were every bit as valid as the other great wines of the world. He saw beyond the dominant ideology of his region, and there was no going back. His work became the engine that powered all those who followed in his footsteps.

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