Berlitz: Poland Pocket Guide by Berlitz

Author:Berlitz
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Travel, Poland
Publisher: APA
Published: 2012-10-24T16:00:00+00:00

Old Town

The Old Town (Stare Miasto) developed in tandem with the Main Town, though it was never as wealthy and after the war was not as lovingly or thoroughly rebuilt. Consequently, it has fewer sights of interest, but enough for a half-day’s exploration.

Of principal interest is the Great Mill (Wielki Młyn; ul. Wielkie Młyny 16), a terrific structure with a sloping tiled roof. Built by the Teutonic Knights in 1350, the mill was the largest in medieval Europe, and it continued to function until the end of World War II. Today, however, it is an indoor shopping mall with all manner of clothing stores. Past the small pond behind the mill and across the street is Gdańsk’s Old Town Hall (Ratusz Starego Miasta; ul. Korzenna 33–5; Mon–Fri 9am–5pm), a 16th-century building that was labelled the pearl of the Dutch Renaissance. Designed by Antoon van Opberghen, who also designed the Great Armoury, this is where the town council met. It now contains a café and exhibition centre, but of greatest interest is the rich interior. Walk in and take a look upstairs, where you’ll find the Great Hall.

Directly across the street from the Great Mill is St Catherine’s Church (Kościół Św. Katarzyny; ul. Profesorska 3), the former parish church and the oldest church in Gdańsk, begun in 1220. The Gothic-vaulted interior is most celebrated for the enormous mural, on the left aisle beneath the organ loft, depicting Christ’s entry into Jerusalem. The church tower holds a 37-bell carillon that chimes on the hour. The church was damaged by fire in 2006, and access is currently limited to the area under the main tower. Restoration work continues.

Directly behind, or east of, St Catherine’s is St Bridget’s Church (Kościół Św. Brygidy; ul. Profesorska 17), which dates from the 15th century, but more recently became a refuge for the Solidarity movement from the Communist government. Inside are several permanent displays related to the human rights struggles of the Polish workers’ union. In fact, Lech Wałęsa attended Mass here before he became the spokesman for Solidarność. The politicised nature of the church is evident on the right aisle in a series of crosses from the 1980s strikes, the gravestone of murdered priest (and Solidarność sympathizer) Jerzy Popiełuszko, and a bas-relief history of the workers’ union. More recently, work is progressing on the construction of a magnificent altar made of amber and precious metals.

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