Zingerman's Guide to Good Eating by Ari Weinzweig

Author:Ari Weinzweig
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt

Spring cheese can be good too. The new season’s grass is coming up in the fields, creating great complexity in the flavor. Spring milk has less butterfat, though, and hence the cheese is drier in texture. Consequently, spring cheeses can be more difficult to cut, and they don’t have the luscious, creamy mouth-feel associated with autumn cheese.

Autumn cheese is generally credited with being the most desirable. It’s usually more balanced in flavor with a higher butterfat level, so it tastes very rich and full. Autumn cheese is usually the most enjoyable for sitting down and eating as is.

Before 1984, official Parmigiano-Reggiano practice dictated that the cheese be made only between April 1 and November 11. Cheeses made in winter are not the most prized wheels. But they too can be excellent, whiter due to the cow’s winter diet, with deliciously delicate flavors.

Cheeses that have been aged for three or even four years are more intense than younger cheeses, which are soft and gentle. By local standards, the best Parmigiano-Reggiano is sweet, mellow, and mild. As locals see it, Parmigiano should always complement, never overwhelm. Most turn up their noses at stronger cheeses, shipping them to the south of Italy, where the preference is for Parmigiano with more piquancy.

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