The Mood Guide to Fabric and Fashion by Mood Designer Fabrics

The Mood Guide to Fabric and Fashion by Mood Designer Fabrics

Author:Mood Designer Fabrics
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Abrams
Published: 2015-05-19T16:00:00+00:00


An assortment of bouclés

Lightweight wools (left to right):

Challis

Voile

Gauze

TUTORIAL: WOOL SHAWL

Make an easy, elegant scarf from soft wool challis or voile. Simply cut out a perfect square in the size of your choosing, run a line of stitching around the edge (leaving at least ½″ [12 mm] seam allowance). If desired, clean-finish the vertical (parallel to the selvage) edges with double-fold hems. Pull out the loose threads from the raw edges until you have even fringe. Trim any straggling threads, and you’ve got yourself a chic, all-purpose accessory. Try hand-painting with dye, tie-dyeing, or dip-dyeing the fabric for extra credit, but be aware that the fabric will shrink and felt somewhat when washed or dunked in hot dye.

CHALLIS, VOILE, AND GAUZE

When we think of wool, we often think of bulky winter garments, but wool can also be downright ethereal. These top-weight fabrics make beautiful, delicate blouses, sophisticated dresses, or can be used to make the world’s easiest accessory: scarves. Challis is a lightweight, drapey, breathable, all-purpose plain weave that also comes in rayon and polyester versions (but the Mood staff favors pure, natural wool). It’s a perennial favorite for tops and blouses, but it can sometimes come in bottom weights, too, which make for lovely skirts and pants. Wool voile, like cotton voile, has a smooth finish and translucent quality. Wool gauze, like cotton gauze, is an open weave. Try using it for decorative top layers to add an element of transparency, or gather and drape it for dramatic effect.

(TIPS)

• These fabrics are the most delicate of all wools. Avoid using them for anything structured and close-fitting, or the seams will get stressed out.

• Remember that many challises, voiles, and gauzes have an element of transparency. Try double-layering for opacity.

• Because of their sheerness and tendency to fray, lightweight wools work best with clean-finished seams. Try French seams or bias binding rather than pinking shears or a serger.



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