The Making of a Milliner by Jenny Pfanenstiel

Author:Jenny Pfanenstiel
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Dover Publications
Published: 2015-03-21T16:00:00+00:00

Straw Drying with Presser in Place

Sewing Wire in Straw Edge

Wire. We want the fascinator to stay stiff and hold its disk shape. We will be using 18–21 gauge millinery wire.

First, we need to measure how much wire we will need. Wrap the wire around the outside of the brim, add 3”, and cut with wire cutters. Because most wire is wound up when you buy it, it helps to take some of the curve out. I call this breaking the back of the wire. Slide your thumb along the curve of the wire from top to bottom. You are not trying to re-bend it or straighten it, just trying to take a little bit of the curve out.

Next, we are going to add the wire joiner to one of the ends of the wire. Millinery wire is covered with two main threads that can be easily removed by grabbing one of the threads and pulling it away from the wire. Remove the thread, exposing 1/2” of the wire. Do the same with the second thread. Cut the loose thread off. Dab a very small amount of superglue gel onto the tip of the exposed wire. Then, place half of the wire joiner onto the wire. The other half will be used later to join the other end of the wire. Take your pliers and squeeze the half of the joiner that is over the wire to clamp it closed.

Sew. Your sewing machine should have the same color thread as the straw. You will be sewing a straight stitch at a 3.5 stitch length.

Before sewing the wire in, crease both layers of straw together with your fingers at the indent left by the rope, working all the way around the edge. This will help to keep the wire in the fold when sewing.

Place the blocked straw on your head, look in the mirror, and decide on which side of the head you want it to sit. Mark the center back with a pin. Begin sewing at the center back of the hat with the end of the wire with the joiner about 2" above the starting point so it is easy to access the joiner later in order to join the other end of the wire.

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