The Big Book of Maker Skills by Chris Hackett

Author:Chris Hackett
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Publisher: Weldon Owen

109 TRY SOME TIG WELDING, TOO

Of the three welding processes here, TIG welding is the most precise and most difficult to master. A TIG welding system allows you to control the intensity of your arc with a foot pedal—not unlike hitting the gas in a car. Also, TIG electrodes aren’t consumed; welds are filled with a rod.

STEP 1 With the welder off, loosen the back cap until the tungsten slides freely. Hold the gun so that the nozzle face provides a hypotenuse to the two pieces of steel; the tungsten should be at a 45-degree angle, pointed directly at the seam. Position the tungsten so that the tip is about ¼ inch (6.5 mm) from the seam. Tighten the back cap.

STEP 2 Set the heat. A good rule of thumb for TIG welding steel is 1 amp per 1/1000 inch (0.03 mm) at the top end, taking off 20 percent after the puddle has formed. Since ⅛ inch (3.2 mm) equals 0.125, set the machine to 125 amps.

STEP 3 Holding your head so that you are looking straight down the length of the weld, get your rod ready. You should be using -inch (1.6-mm) steel filler rod that it is long enough to get to the work’s far end.

STEP 4 Position the gun in the 45-degree straddle at one end of the seam. Push the pedal all the way down; the arc should jump directly to the seam. As soon as the seam puddles, let up on the pedal. Then tack the other end.

STEP 5 Move the gun back to the first tack. Floor the pedal. As soon as you get a full, glossy puddle, back off 20 percent. Slide the rod down the seam and dip it in the puddle, pivoting the gun away to avoid crossing rod and arc. Move the puddle, add more rod, and repeat until you hit the last tack. Ease up on the puddle slowly. You should have a pretty weld that looks like it was made by a robot.

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