Tailoring a Jacket by McBride Gill;

Tailoring a Jacket by McBride Gill;

Author:McBride, Gill;
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Crowood


Purchased sleeve head pinned to sleeve cap before stitching.

Sleeve head stitched and trimmed back.

Only the top part of the sleeve cap needs to be eased. A good rule is to use the notches on the sleeve pattern and ease from the front sleeve notch up and round to the back sleeve notches. Many patterns give a much shorter area for easing across the sleeve cap but this can result in gathering at the top of the sleeve, especially if there is quite a lot of ease in the sleeve pattern. In this case, increase the area to be eased and use the notches, as mentioned above, as the start and stop point for easing. Note that there is never any easing done on the underarm part of the sleeve.

A confident sewer will be able to pin a sleeve into the armhole and ease with pins only before sewing. An alternative is to sew two rows of long tacking stitch with the machine, tying off the beginning of each row and leaving a long thread at the finishing end of each row. Make sure that both rows start and finish at the same point and that they are approximately 5mm (¼in) apart and within the seam allowance. Once stitched, hold the long threads on either the inside or the outside of the sleeve and gently pull the fabric back until it begins to gather slightly. Do not worry if you gather the sleeve cap too much, as this can be pulled back as required when pinning the sleeve before stitching. This method allows the sleeve ease to be equally spread around the top of the jacket armhole.



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