Southern Grit by Kelsey Barnard Clark

Author:Kelsey Barnard Clark [Barnard Clark, Kelsey]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Chronicle Books LLC
Published: 2021-09-15T00:00:00+00:00

Sweetie’s Gumbo

The smell of roux reminds me of my childhood. In the spring, as soon as the chill left the air, our family would head to our beach house on the Gulf. On the way, we’d stop to get chicken thighs and fish carcasses at the grocery store—we couldn’t miss an hour of catching time.

I learned how to avoid biting crab claws before I could tie my shoes properly and mastered the art of cleaning them before I could braid my hair. We’d bring the cleaned crabs up from the dock and dump them right into the pot. My mom’s dark roux would have been simmering all day in the skillet, and that rich smell would taunt us until we could hardly stand it. Once the crabs were just done enough, we’d sit around our newspaper-covered table to crack and dig out the precious, sweet meat until there wasn’t a drop of it left. It was always silent once the crabs hit the table—a miracle in our family.

It wasn’t until I was older that I realized how unique this tradition was. Gumbo, jambalaya, and red beans and rice were repeat dishes in my family. My Mobile, Alabama, grandmothers and great-grandmothers added a unique twist of Cajun flavors and an attitude we wouldn’t have been exposed to otherwise. These women weren’t afraid to do the dirty work and, in fact, relished the opportunity.

Every time I whisk roux in my grandmother’s cast iron skillet, I can’t help but acknowledge the similarities between its traits and the matriarchs of my family. To develop properly, it requires patience and careful attention. Strong, classic, steady, and the binder that holds everything together. It’s of the utmost importance and leaves a lasting impression.

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