Real Flavours by Glynn Christian
Author:Glynn Christian
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: COOKING / General
Publisher: Grub Street Cookery
Published: 2008-11-04T05:00:00+00:00
You might still do this to grouse, partridge and pheasant, even to venison if you are rich enough – or poor enough to live in suitably remote areas. But generally a happy combination of greed and sense means most such birds and animals are now farmed, yet remain as game in the vocabulary.
The most important thing for serious cooks and eaters to remember is that farmed game will almost always be blander in flavour, not necessarily a bad thing, but it does mean that oldfashioned, strongly flavoured marinades are neither needed nor, necessary. This is particularly true when cooking venison.
The best use of game in the delicatessen and specialty food store is probably in pâtés and pies, especially Britain’s famed raised pies. Or so the theory goes. I regularly find there is more presence of the pheasant or partridge or pigeon on the label than on the palate, and thus the premium we have paid has been obtained by false pretence. There’s a good recipe later in this chapter and more about getting maximum flavour from game in the chapter Pies, Pâtés and Terrines.
As the taste grows for more interesting food, I expect the traditional country side flavours of the past will come more and more to the fore: pigeon and Barbary duck, rabbit and hare are regularly featured in national supermarkets and they are bound to work their way into more and more produce. It is as well you know what they should taste like before you are persuaded otherwise. And then you can work on liking wild boar, or ostrich.
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