Perfumes The Guide 2018 by Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez

Author:Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez [Turin, Luca]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: perfumes
Publisher: Perfüümista OÜ
Published: 2018-06-26T04:00:00+00:00

L1 is an uninteresting, derivative trashoid masculine clone, though by no means the worst in its genre. Now for the bad news. I consider the merchandising of supercar brands to be the nadir of dismal. Is there, for example, anything sadder in this shopping valley of tears than a Ferrari store, save perhaps the people who buy the stuff? Lamborghini was once a maverick brand of Italian sports cars, started in the 1960s by Ferruccio Lamborghini, who made tractors and heating-oil burners and was dissatisfied with the build quality and service of the Ferrari cars he owned. L1 the fragrance is predictably described in the blurb as (my translation) “a perfume capable of evoking the same sensations one feels when driving a Lamborghini.” I am sitting at my table, smelling the stuff, and can report no glorious tuned-exhaust noise, no g-forces in any direction, no feeling of fear mixed with exhilaration. The only thing in common, had I actually bought L1 rather than being sent a sample, might be a gnawing feeling of having misspent some cash. lt

Lamborghini L2 (Lamborghini) ★★ apple spice

Uninteresting Cool Waterish clone. lt

Lamborghini L3 (Lamborghini) ★★ woody green

Presentable if instantly forgettable guy-in-a-suit fragrance. lt

Lamborghini L4 (Lamborghini) ★★ powdery spice

Whoever last drove this jalopy was wearing Habit Rouge (Guerlain, 1965). lt

Lampblack (Bruno Fazzolari) ★★★★ smoky vetiver

One of the most satisfying things brought about by the Web is the revelation of natural talents that would otherwise have been known only to friends and family or, as they say in Italy, “famous at home at suppertime.” Of all the arts, perfumery is perhaps the most shrouded in professional mystique. We accept that there may be untutored violinists of great talent (we call them fiddlers), music composers (Paul McCartney cannot write musical notation), architects (France’s Facteur Cheval showed the way), chefs (every famous chef’s mother or grandmother), etc. But the notion of a really good amateur perfumer is still shocking to most people. No, you don’t have to be born in Grasse, speak in a Hollywood-French accent, believe in the éternel féminin and spend a decade toiling in the engine room of one of the Big Six to be a perfumer. All you have to be is good at it. Bruno Fazzolari is a French-born visual artist who has been doing perfumes for a mere four years. I assume his PR is telling the truth and he composes his own fragrances. They are, in truth, very professional. Lampblack is my favorite, an elegant smoky-fresh composition I’ve been wearing most days for weeks now. It uses nagarmotha, also known as cypriol, a smoky material, which successfully steers a narrow course between the dangerous shoals of bacon and leather and manages to suggest smoke rising to heaven rather than the tar left behind. In the manner of Piguet’s late and much lamented Cravache, Fazzolari marries it with a discreet citrus top note and some high-grade vetiver to achieve a quiet, stylish, salubrious masculine. Very nice work. lt

Lanterne Rouge (Auphorie) ★★★★ mandarin osmanthus

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