How and Why to Build a Wine Cellar by Richard M. Gold Ph. D

Author:Richard M. Gold, Ph. D. [Richard M. Gold, Ph. D.]
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 978-1-891267-00-0
Publisher: The Wine Appreciation Guild
Published: 2007-11-15T00:00:00+00:00

The door jambs extend the full thickness of the doorway. If you have 12” thick walls, then cut your 12” wide jambs from the 1/4” plywood. The space between the vertical studs flanking the door should provide, for the 6” thick x 25.5” wide door depicted, 1.5” more than the door width, or 27”. The extra space is for two 1/4” thick plywood jambs, clearance, and the 3/4” swing-out of the door. As the door opens, its trailing edge will describe an arc whose radius will equal the diagonal of the door as measured from the hinge. With a thin door, the diagonal is barely more than the width, but for a 6” thick, 25.5 inch wide door the diagonal is 3/4” greater than the width. For an 8” thick 25.5” door the diagonal is 1.2” greater than the width. The ideal way to accommodate the swing-out is to build both the doorway and the door 3/4” (or 1.2”) wider on the handle end of the hinged side. That way the diagonal measured from the hinge equals the width of the face. (This detail was unfortunately not contemplated before figure 14-1 was drawn.)

Hanging a door is always tricky, especially for a thick door in a thick wall. If you have no experience hanging doors, then this is the moment to enlist a carpentry-competent friend. If the walls and doorway are vertically plumb as measured with a level, if the floor is level, or at least not off by more than the thickness of the threshold, and the door is square and hung straight, then it shouldn’t scrape the floor when you open it.

Use three 4” hinges installed with 1.5” flat head screws. Attach the door half of all three hinges first. The hinges should be reset into the door using hammer and chisel to form the reset slot. Drill pilot holes for the screws. This would be a good time to cut the plywood jambs and loosely place them, but don’t attach them yet. It’s also the best time to install the handles (see below) as they’ll make it easier to maneuver the door. Prop the door into place, using shims to raise it off the floor, and mark the precise spot for the wall side of the top and bottom hinges only. Move the door out of the way. Separate the two halves of the top and bottom hinges only by removing the pins, and install the wall side of these two hinges directly onto the studs. No reset is needed here as cutouts in the 1/4” door jamb will provide the recess. Put the door back and, if you did it right, the hinge pins will drop right in, perhaps with a bit of lubrication and a few hammer taps. Cross your fingers before you test the door swing. With the door open, secure the third hinge to the wall. Now use finish nails to install the plywood door jambs, after first making sure that they don’t need to be trimmed or padded to get a good door fit, and after making cut outs for the hinges.

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