Growing Flowers by Niki Irving

Author:Niki Irving
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Mango Publishing Group
Published: 2020-04-07T00:00:00+00:00

Deep Dive: Growing Dahlias

•Prepare the garden bed in full sun (at least eight hours per day) with well-draining soil. If summer temperatures are extreme (for example, consistently over 90 degrees Fahrenheit), they may benefit from slight afternoon shade. For mild and cool climates, plant dahlias after all danger of frost has passed. For warm climates, plant dahlias in September and/or February to avoid growing during the hottest summer months.

•Dig a trench or hole about six to eight inches deep and add a sprinkle of organic compost or fertilizer. We use a well-balanced 5-5-5 organic fertilizer at Flourish.

•Dahlia tubers should be spaced eighteen to twenty-four inches apart. Ample spacing to allow good airflow is important, as dahlias are prone to powdery mildew, especially in warm, humid climates. Lay the tuber horizontally, sprout-side up. Cover the tuber so it’s buried with about three inches of soil.

•Do not water dahlias until they begin sprouting because the tubers are very prone to rotting.

•Dahlias need to be kept weed-free until they are mature, since most weeds grow rapidly and can outcompete the dahlias for sunlight and soil nutrition. Plus, some weeds attract harmful pests. Ideally, dahlias are always kept weed-free (but I know how that goes!) and once they mature, they are large enough to win out over the weeds. Use organic mulch, such as wheat, straw, or cardboard around the plants to prevent weeds and conserve moisture.

•When the plants are about twelve inches tall and have at least four sets of leaves, pinch back the main stem by snipping off about four inches of the growth center or central growing stem. This encourages good branching, giving you more stems and blooms in the long run.

•After the plants are established and are about twelve inches tall, water them deeply once or twice per week (more watering is recommended for temperatures over 85 degrees). Drip irrigation or soaker hoses for watering are strongly recommended to help with disease control. More about the benefits of drip irrigation in Chapter 6.

•Dahlias need a support structure to keep the heavy blooms from bending to the ground. Tomato cages work great for small amounts of plants. For long rows of dahlias, horizontal Tenax netting or staking using a corral or the “Florida Weave” (both using T-posts and bailing twine) are recommended. More about plant support in Chapter 6.

•The more you cut your dahlias, the more they keep blooming! We cut our stems about every three days, even if it’s just deadheading. This encourages the plant to keep producing flowers, versus going to seed. Cut deeply on long stems to continue promoting longer stem growth. Cut when the flowers are most of the way open (about three-quarters or so). Dahlia flowers do not open much more once they’ve been cut. Check the back of the plant for firm petals; browning or thin petals mean the bloom has matured and will not last as long in a vase.

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