Exaltation of Soups by Solley Patricia

Author:Solley, Patricia [Solley, Patricia]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: History
ISBN: 9781400050352
Google: mGfa4WCheusC
Amazon: 1400050359
Barnesnoble: 1400050359
Goodreads: 8962123
Publisher: Clarkson Potter
Published: 2004-12-28T00:00:00+00:00

IRAN (PERSIA)

NOODLE SOUP

SH-E RESHTEH

Now the New Year reviving old Desires,

The thoughtful Soul to Solitude retires,

Where the white hand of Moses on the bough

Puts out, and Jesus from the ground suspires.

—OMAR KHAYYAM, eleventh-century Persian poet, from THE RUBIYAT, verse 4

Serves 6 to 8

THIS ANCIENT SOUP to celebrate No Ruz (New Year) on March 21 began life in Zoroastrian Persia, made then of spinach and clover that was freshly sprouting in mid-March and thickened with a paste of flour and water. Over time, the flour-and-water paste thickened into dumplings, and by A.D. 500, at the court of Sassanian King Kobad, tales from Old Persian literature indicate those dumplings had forever turned to noodles, 700 years before pasta turned up for the first time in Italy. This recipe is rich in native Iranian ingredients, but also reflective of its central position on the hump of the Silk Road, with traders and their fabled foodstuffs endlessly peregrinating through it, east to west and west to east and back again.

sh-e reshteh is a glorious soup, stuffed with grains and greens, multicolored, multitextured, and oh-so-exquisitely aromatic for all the stumpingly hearty foods in it. You can ladle it into separate bowls and garnish individually, but it’s really lovely in one big tureen ladled out to hungry guests who are anxious for a lucky New Year. Be sure to have warm bread and lemon juice on the side.

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