Estela by Ignacio Mattos

Author:Ignacio Mattos
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Artisan
Published: 2018-08-15T00:00:00+00:00

Cod with Cherries and Vin Jaune Vinegar

Vin jaune vinegar will be almost impossible to source, but don’t let that stop you from making this recipe. Just use vin jaune wine, which has a similarly singular oxidized quality on the nose and palate (think sherry). I find it very appealing. You may just want to add a little bit of vinegar to reinforce it.

Serves 4

For the Brine

4 cups (scant 1 l) water

½ cup (100 g) kosher salt

Four 4-ounce (115 g) pieces skin-on cod fillet, each about 1 inch thick

For the Marinade

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 large garlic cloves, smashed

2 teaspoons coriander seeds, crushed under a clean heavy pan

For the Kombu Water

Half a 3½-inch square of kombu

1 cup (240 ml) water

For the Cherries

2 pounds sweet cherries, pitted

¼ cup (60 ml) vin jaune vinegar

¼ cup (60 ml) Arbequina olive oil

2 teaspoons thinly sliced Pickled Ramps, plus a small splash of the pickling liquid

Pinch of kosher salt, or to taste

About 2 tablespoons rendered pork fat, melted (optional)

A very small handful of dried dulse seaweed (preferably from Maine), torn into wispy pieces

A large handful of mixed aromatic but mild, tender leaves, such as Egyptian spinach, anise hyssop, shiso, sweet potato leaves, and/or wild spinach

Arbequina olive oil, for drizzling

Make the brine:

Combine the water and salt in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the salt. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.

Set the cod in a shallow baking dish just large enough to hold it and the brine comfortably. Pour the brine over the fish; it should cover the fish completely. (Alternatively, do this in a heavy-duty gallon-size zip-top bag.) Cover tightly with plastic wrap (or seal the bag) and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Make the marinade:

Combine the olive oil, fish sauce, garlic, and coriander seeds in a small bowl. Set aside.

Make the kombu water:

Put the kombu and water in a small saucepan and let soak for 15 minutes, then set the pan over medium heat, bring the water to a simmer, and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool, then remove and discard the kombu. Set the kombu water aside. (This will make more than you need for this recipe, but you can use what remains for miso soup.)

Remove the fish from the baking dish and pat dry. Discard the brine and return the fish to the baking dish. Reserve about ¼ cup (60 ml) of the marinade and pour the rest of it over the fish. Marinate the cod for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour.

Prepare the cherries:

Juice half the cherries with a juicer. Measure out ½ cup (120 ml) of the juice and set aside.

Halve the remaining cherries and quarter any very large ones. Set aside in a small bowl.

Just before cooking the fish, combine the cherry juice, vinegar, Arbequina olive oil, ramp pickling liquid, and salt in a medium bowl. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary, then add the cherries, tossing to combine well.

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