Furniture Fundamentals--Casework by Scott Francis

Author:Scott Francis
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: F+W Media

Now take your strips and run them through your planer to reduce them in thickness to 5⁄16". Miter the corners; then glue and nail them in place. Sand both sides of your face frame with #100-grit sandpaper and move on to building the door.

Adding this beaded moulding to the inside of the face frame creates a nice shadow line around the door. Miter, glue and nail it in place. Don’t forget to putty your nail holes.

The Door

Why make the door next? Well, for one thing, it is easier to hang your door in your face frame before you nail the face frame to your case.

I build my doors so they are the same size as my opening, then I shave off a little so there’s a 1⁄16" gap all around. This way if the door or face frame is out of square, I can taper the door edges to fit, hiding my error.

The door is built much like the face frame, using the same size mortises and tenons. The biggest difference is that you will need to cut a groove in your rails and stiles for the door panel, so your tenons must be haunched. A “haunch” is a little extra width in the tenon’s shoulder that fills in the groove on the end of the stile.

Begin by cutting a 3⁄8"-deep x 3⁄8"-wide groove down the center of one long edge of your rails and stiles. Cut your tenons on your rails. Then cut your mortises on your stiles. Dry fit the pieces together and measure how big the center panel should be.

You want the panel to float to allow seasonal expansion and contraction, so cut the panel to allow 1⁄8" expansion on either side. Now raise the door panel using your table saw or a cutter in your router table. Practice on scrap pieces of 5⁄8" stock so you achieve the right lip, angle and fit.

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