Everyman's Grooming Guide by Infinite Ideas

Author:Infinite Ideas [Infinite Ideas]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Infinite Ideas Ltd
Published: 2012-02-10T00:00:00+00:00

12. Suits you sir

Whether going to your wedding or going to court, there are times when nothing else will do: you will need a good suit.

Young lads no longer start dressing like their fathers as soon as they leave school, a collar and tie is not now a prerequisite if you are going to a football match, and it’s now casual Friday on most days of the week – but sooner or later you need to add a good suit to your wardrobe. At this important juncture, most of us go out and buy a bad suit instead.

A good suit makes you look, and feel, a bit like James Bond. Depending on your error, a bad suit marks you out as a pimp, an exhibitionist or a sausage with buttons on.

Don’t skimp. You’re looking at a few hundred pounds at least for a quality garment. The most important reason is the fabric. You want material that won’t sag, bobble and go shiny in a couple of months, and that will drape properly. Everything looks good in the shop, but scrunch the sleeve of the jacket in your hand. The material should spring gently back, without holding the creases. All-wool is traditionally what you’re looking for, but some modern suits mix wool with synthetics to make something that’s luxurious but lightweight, so this isn’t a rule. Cotton can be hardwearing for a basic suit but doesn’t drape as well; linen looks lovely on the hanger, but you’ll freeze in winter, and it crumples in summer – which makes cheap linen a definite no-no.

Buy a solid colour as your basic everyday suit: dark blue, charcoal grey or black. Splash out – you will look better in one £600 suit than in any of three £200 suits, but if you’re spending everything on one garment you’ll need a suit you can wear everywhere. It’s tempting to be the nonconformist, and select an amusing tartan. Excellent at film premieres, but a little odd at your uncle’s funeral. Remember, George ‘Beau’ Brummell, the greatest British dandy, wore only grey suits. With a good basic suit you can use a bright shirt to create an impression, but you can also wear it to the office.

Now you need to think about cut. For many years, the three-button jacket has held sway. This suits many body types, as long as the jacket is the right length, falling just below the seat of your trousers. A longer, two-button jacket is now common, which nips in nicely if you are tall and have a waist to show off. Double-breasted suits are available for off-duty yachtsmen and middle-aged deputy sales managers, but probably not for you. The trick is not to be constrained by this week’s fashion – a good suit could last for years. Try everything with an open mind. Trousers most commonly have a flat front, though a single pleat is just acceptable if you want some room to manoeuvre down there. Two pleats will often make it look

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