Demystifying Bra Fitting and Construction by Norma Loehr

Author:Norma Loehr [Loehr, Norma]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Orange Lingerie LLC
Published: 2013-04-08T06:00:00+00:00

Increase hook and eye closure height:

1. Measure the height of the new, taller hook and eye closure.

2. Add to the existing closure height to match the height of the taller closure.

3. Redraw the back scoop or the angle of the T back as necessary.

Issue: Breathing is uncomfortable. The bra is digging in to the body.

Diagnosis: The band is too tight or the cups are too small.

Solution: If your cups are clearly too small, meaning the breasts are coming out from underneath and over the top of the cups, try a larger cup size then begin the fitting process. Otherwise, the band is too small and you can proceed through the following steps.

1. Check your fabric. Is the stretch aligned so it goes around the body? If not, recut the band so the stretch is correctly oriented and retest.

2. If the stretch is correct and the band is too small, increase the length. This change is not made at the back of the band where it would move the straps farther apart.

a. Estimate the total amount the band needs to be increased.

b. Add half this amount to each side seam. If your pattern has no side seam, mark the toile at the underarm and slash and spread the pattern there.

c. Redraw the back band angle and underarm area as necessary taking care not to change the height of the band at either end.

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