Ageless Beauty by Clemence von Mueffling

Author:Clemence von Mueffling
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9780718188559
Publisher: Penguin Books Ltd
Published: 2018-04-19T16:00:00+00:00

The Best Tips from Two of France’s Top Makeup Artists

Olivier Échaudemaison, Creative Director for Makeup at Guerlain, began his career as a hairstylist with Alexandre de Paris, the “hairstylist to the stars” in the 1960s, where he used to watch Twiggy and the other cover girls of the era do their own makeup. He would soon become their favorite makeup artist, and he was hired to work on photo shoots for some of the world’s most prestigious magazines and top photographers, such as Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton, Guy Bourdin, Norman Parkinson, and David Bailey. He’s worked with some of the most beautiful women in the world: Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren, Ava Gardner, Jacqueline Kennedy, and Romy Schneider. The most beautiful face he’s ever seen? The incomparable Elizabeth Taylor.

What made me a makeup celebrity in the 1970s was that Norman Parkinson, who was one of the best-known photographers for the British royal family, asked me to accompany him on an anonymous photo shoot—because I am French—to Buckingham Palace for the first official photo of Princess Anne, the daughter of the Queen of England, who was twenty-one at the time. After that, I went on to do her engagement photos, from the engagement to her wedding, from the marriage to her children. I was very discreet about it, as the royals didn’t want the press to know that Princess Anne was using a French makeup artist. Quiet word still got out, which gave me fantastic publicity in the aristocratic circles of Europe, and suddenly all the princesses were asking me to do their makeup. I also worked quite a lot with Jacqueline Kennedy as her hairdresser and her makeup artist, because back then there were very few professional makeup artists outside of Hollywood.

The French and European way is that they don’t wear very much. A bit of this and a bit of that. Whereas Asians, for example, specifically Japanese women, like their makeup to be seen. With American women, it’s one or the other. Either the look is completely natural, with little to no makeup, or the other side of the spectrum: completely done up. There’s no real in-between.

The French don’t like looking like they are wearing makeup. They do everything possible so that their skin looks flawless, and they care for their skin well, so their makeup is imperceptible. However, the French do like to show a certain sensuality. So red lips—but not aggressively so. Nails are often colored, especially the toes. So there is a bit of color, but on the eyelids, not really. Taupe, beige, gray, etc., but no green or turquoise or bright colors. Your eyelids are not rainbows. Eyebrows? Yes. No fake eyelashes. Eyebrow tinting? Yes. And mascara. French women, Parisian women, won’t go out without mascara and lipstick. There is a form of sophistication from lipstick. It took a while for people to understand that it is an accessory according to the season, the time of day, and so on. It’s like matching a bag to your shoes.

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