The Elements of Boat Strength by Dave Gerr

Author:Dave Gerr
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: McGraw-Hill Education
Published: 2000-02-25T16:00:00+00:00

• Silicon bronze and 316 stainless steel (second best) are the proper materials for metal-strap floors. Hot-dip galvanized mild steel, primed and painted all around before installation, can be used; however, it seems a poor economy after adding in the cost of galvanizing and painting and its lower life expectancy.

• Through-bolt the metal-strap floor into each stringer and into the keel.

• Through-bolt the metal-strap floor through the wood blocking and into the plank. On hulls with Sns less than 2, it may be easier to screw-fasten the blocking to the plank from outside, and then to screw-fasten (or lag-bolt) the metal strap down into the blocking from inside.

Install wood blocking under the metal strap at the same height, or a little higher, then the keel top athwartships. The blocking should be sided the same as the metal strap. Run the blocking out over the first stringer, out from the keel, and then taper the blocking height until it reaches the second stringer out and butts against it, flush with the stringer’s top. The metal-strap floor runs on top of the blocking continuously from port to starboard. On sailboats, at the ballast keel and the mast steps, the blocking should be extended out to the third stringer out from the keel (or farther). The blocking height—outboard of the second stringer—will be the same height as the stringers, and the metal strap will extend out over the third stringer.

If Logger Bobber were fitted with metal-strap floors, we would install

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