Six Seasons: A New Way With Vegetables by Joshua McFadden

Author:Joshua McFadden
Language: eng
Format: mobi
ISBN: 9781579656317
Publisher: Artisan
Published: 2017-03-01T08:00:00+00:00

Cauliflower Ragu

I think of this dish as one of my sleeper

recipes—it’s not super sexy on paper, but it

is surprisingly delicious and crowd-pleasing.

Part of the appeal comes from adding the

cauliflower in two batches—the first addition

becomes meltingly tender and breaks down

through the long cooking. The second addition

holds on to a bit of its fresh texture and flavor, forming a flavor “chord.” Another key is to

finish cooking the pasta in the ragu, so that

it soaks up some of the sauce. And be sure to

season this well!

» Serves 4

1 large head cauliflower

1 big sprig rosemary

or Romanesco

Kosher salt and freshly

(1½ to 1¾ pounds)

ground black pepper

Extra-virgin olive oil

12 ounces rigatoni or

3 garlic cloves, smashed other tubular pasta

smashing with a wooden spoon or spatula a few

and peeled

shape

times as you cook.

¼ teaspoon dried

1 tablespoon fresh

chile flakes

lemon juice

Add the rest of the cauliflower and the

1 medium yello onion,

3 tablespoons unsalted

remaining ½ cup water and cook until the

diced

butter

second batch of cauliflower is very tender,

½ cup dry, unoaked

1 cup freshly grated

though it will have more tooth to it than the

white wine

Parmigiano-Reggiano

first batch, which should be quite sloppy by

1½ cups water

cheese

now. This second cooking should take another

20 minutes or so. The ragu at this stage should

If the cauliflower still has outer leaves and they

be loose but not watery, so if it seems dry or

look fresh, chop them. Cut the center stem from

tight, add a few more spoonfuls of water.

the cauliflower and cut the head into small

florets. Chop the stem into small chunks.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil

and add salt until it tastes like the sea. Add the

Heat ¼ cup olive oil, the garlic, and the chile

pasta and cook until 2 minutes shy of al dente

flakes in a large deep skillet or Dutch oven over

(according to the package directions). The pasta

medium-high heat. Add about two-thirds of the

will finish cooking in the ragu. With a ladle or

cauliflower florets and chopped stems (you’ll

a measuring cup, scoop out about 1 cup pasta

add the last third in a bit) and the onion. Add

cooking water and then drain the pasta well.

se

the wine, 1 cup of the water, rosemary sprig,

as

Add the pasta to the ragu, along with the lemon

on t

1 teaspoon salt, and several generous twists of

black pepper. Tumble everything together.

juice, butter, and Parmigiano, and fold everything

h

together. Taste and adjust with more salt, lemon,

ree

Cover the pan and adjust the heat so the mixture

black pepper, or cheese, and adjust the texture to

: m

simmers nicely. Cook until the cauliflower is

make it creamy by adding a splash or two of the

ids

fairly tender, about 25 minutes, stirring and

reserved pasta water. Serve right away.

ummer|

189

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