Habitat for Humanity, How to Build a House by Larry Haun & Vincent Laurence & Tim Snyder

Author:Larry Haun & Vincent Laurence & Tim Snyder
Language: eng
Format: azw3, mobi, epub
Tags: Do-It-Yourself, House Plans, www.cro-wood.com, Design & Construction, House & Home, carpentry
ISBN: 9781561585328
Publisher: Taunton Press
Published: 2002-12-15T05:00:00+00:00

cutting fiber-cement with a power saw is that it creates a it. Fiber-cement trim is available for inside and outside lot of dust. Be sure to wear a good dust mask and follow the corners, doors, and windows, as well as for covering fascia manufacturer’s recommendations to avoid unnecessary ex-boards and soffits. The illustrations on p. 152 show a few of posure to silica, which can damage your lungs.

the trim details available. These same details also work for I prefer to use a set of electric fiber-cement siding shears, wood clapboards and wood shingle siding. The trim should a power tool designed specifically for this job (see Resources be fairly thick—either 5/4 (11⁄4 in. thick) or 2×—in order to on p. 279). The shears cut cleanly, don’t create any dust, and stand proud and cover the ends of the siding.

can be used for both straight and curved cuts. For small holes, At the outside corners, the siding can butt against the cor-such as those for exterior electrical outlets, use a jigsaw with a ner boards or be covered with aluminum corner pieces (called carbide-tipped blade. Cut round holes for pipes with a carbide-siding corners). These pieces have been used for many years tipped hole saw mounted in a heavy-duty, two-handled drill.

as trim for wood siding and work just as well with fiber-cement siding. The siding is installed first and stopped exactly at the Corrosion-resistant fasteners

corner. After all the siding is in place, the siding corners can Most companies guarantee their fiber-cement siding for be slipped under each course. A flange at the bottom of the 50 years. Therefore, it will last a long time—provided it’s corner hooks a row of siding and a 6d or 8d galvanized nail is properly attached with high-quality, corrosion-resistant driven through a hole in the top to hold it in place.

nails. I generally use regular 2-in.-long, hot-dipped galvanized nails. If I’m working near the ocean or another area Installing siding panels

with high humidity, I often use stainless-steel nails.

The installation details for fiber-cement siding are similar to For the most part, builders use pneumatic nailers to at-those for wood clapboards. The bottom-most course of siding tach fiber-cement siding to walls. I’ve found that a regular rests on a 5⁄16-in.-thick, 11⁄2-in.-wide starter strip cut from the pneumatic nailer works better than a roofing nailer (see siding or from pressure-treated wood. The bottom edge of the Resources on p. 279). Make sure that the pressure is set first course should lap about 1 in. below the top of the founda-correctly once you get started so that you don’t overdrive tion. To install subsequent courses, follow the manufacturer’s the nails. Nailguns these days often have a depth gauge recommendations for overlapping and nailing. After you know to ensure that nails are driven flush with the surface. And the amount of reveal the siding will have, you can establish the there are special coil nailguns that have been developed height of each course. For example, a typical lap on 81⁄4-in.-wide specifically for siding.

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